My reply: whichever she’s most interested in, whenever she’s ready
Children begin to crawl at different ages. Kids start to speak at different ages. Is it any surprise that different children are ready to knit/crochet at different ages?
When is a child ready to knit/crochet?
There are a couple prerequisites to knitting or crocheting, so these are some good signs to look out for to see if your child is ready:
They hold and use a pencil (sloppy handwriting is okay!)
They can sit and work on an activity for at least 10-15 minutes
They can count to 10 (not a must, but helpful)
They show interest in the craft
Trying to teach a child before they are ready is not a good idea. It leads to frustration and can discourage the child from trying again later, so I highly recommend you look for these skills!
I began writing at four, and learned to chain when I was 5-6 years old. I just made chains for a really long time! That’s okay!
It’s most important that your child enjoys the activity, rather than hoping they accomplish a certain syllabus of skills. I liked crocheting (and according to my mom) was hopeless at knitting. Again, that’s okay. Encourage what the child is interested in.
What can you expect at what age?
One of the members of my Ravelry group taught her 6-year-old son to crochet. He made this frog all by himself!
Isn’t that amazing? Before the age of 10, a child can typically learn to crochet with help from a parent who shows them the stitches and teaches them the steps of a pattern.
I’ve had children as young as 10 learn to crochet on their own in my Craftsy Course. By this age, kids are used to following instructions in class, and are able to take instruction from a teacher. So even if you can’t knit or crochet, your child might be able to learn!
Once a child is a teenager, they’re just about adults as far as learning knitting/crochet is concerned. ‘Kids’ of this age are usually fine taking an adult class at an LYS/shop (but double check with the store’s policy, first).
The younger the better!
As long as a child has the prerequisite skills (listed above), the younger the better! My husband, Tim, learned to knit when he was about 6 or 7, and it’s a skill he still has today!
With that background, I taught him to crochet as an adult in no time!
I think that exposing children to skills and experiences is a great thing to do… and they may never use it later on. (Tim has knit, like, one thing in his life) That’s okay! They may also latch on to it and the skill becomes a lifelong love, like it did for me!
I love this cute kitty felt Christmas ornament! This is one you can whip up in no time – which makes it super easy to make more than one. How about one in smoky grey? Or a black cat for Halloween? Play! (Or fill one with catnip and let your cat play. But don’t hang that one on the tree!)
This is the sixth ornament in the Christmas Club collection. We’re halfway there! Here’s the collection so far. . .
You can still join at any time! The Welcome PDF that you get with your order has a link to access all the patterns that have gone out so far. Get all the details and sign up here.
The club is closed now, but you can still get all the patterns. 🙂
For a while now I’ve been thinking about designing a free scrap quilt pattern that’s as fun, easy and versatile as the Warren the Charity Bear pattern.
Just like Warren, I wanted something that was fast. I know some of you make and give away a LOT of these quilt every year.
I wanted something that was easy. Easy enough for a beginner or a child to make.
I wanted something that was versatile. Something that you could play around with and make a lot of different looks – and not get bored making lots of them.
When Craft Hope announced that they were looking for some quilts for part of their newest project, I jumped right in.
I’m making my quilt entirely from scraps. I sort my scraps by color and I’m tackling one basket at a time, so the blocks so far are all purple and red. When I’m done it’ll include all the colors of the rainbow. 🙂
My quilt also uses Quilt As You Go – but a different technique from what you’ve seen me use for the applique quilts. For this quilt I’m actually quilting as I piece – a huge time-saver and lots of fun. This method also allows me to use batting scraps. Bonus!
Here’s how I build a block. . .
Cut some batting squares a little bit bigger than the size you want your finished blocks to be. My finished blocks will be 10 inches square, which means I’d normally cut them 10 1/2 inches – but I cut mine 11 inches square to give myself a bit of wiggle room. That wiggle room lets you be a bit imperfect in your cutting – see how the fold in the batting made a little jagged pointy bit on the left side? That’s ok – it’ll get trimmed off. 🙂
Important! You must use 100% cotton batting. You’re going to press this a lot and anything with polyester in it will melt to your iron. I always use Warm & Natural – you can read my review of it here.
Pick a piece of fabric to be your center feature and cut it (roughly) into the shape you want. All of mine are four sides – but nowhere near perfect squares or rectangles. I used scissors (not rotary cutting tools) and just eyeballed everything. Slap that piece down in the middle-ish of a batting square.
Now pick another scrap of fabric. Trim it to match the width of the starter scrap, lay it face down over the starter scrap with the raw edges mostly lined up, and sew across the edge using 1/4 inch-ish seam allowance. You’re sewing through both pieces of fabric and the batting.
Flip that piece up and press it flat.
Now we’ll add another strip. I like to work clockwise, but it really doesn’t matter.
Lay a strip face down over both your earlier pieces and trim it (roughly) to fit. Sew it in place just like the first one. (You can click on the photo if you need to see it bigger.)
Flip that piece open and press it flat.
Keep working your way around that center, building up the size of your block. I added the zigzag piece next, then the skinny stripes.
Keep adding strips until the batting is completely covered.
Those first four red strips were pretty uniform, so it’s time for a skinnier strip. I like to keep things mixed up for more interesting blocks.
I also like to make sure some of my strips go slanty – so they’re thicker at one end and thinner at the other. To do that, I don’t line up the raw edges exactly – I let the new strip slope up or down a bit, like in the photo above.
See how that looks when it’s pressed open? It’s not the most efficient use of fabric, but I’m only wasting a tiny bit and I think it makes the block much more interesting.
Sometimes I use a new fabric with every strip and sometimes I’ll use the same fabric a few times in a row to build interesting shapes. Two consecutive strips of the same fabric makes an L. Three makes a U. And four makes a frame.
Sometimes I only have strips that are too short to reach all the way from edge to edge of the block – especially as the center section gets bigger.
When that happens, I just sew two strips together and use the new, longer strip in my piecing. Sometimes I use two strips of the same fabric, and sometimes I use different fabrics (like in the strip on the right in the photo above). It totally depends on my mood at the moment.
Keep going until your batting square is completely covered.
Here it is from the back. See how there’s fabric showing all around the edge of the batting? And look at the nice quilting already done – holding everything together. I’m going to back this quilt with cuddle fleece for special cuddly warmth. There are tips here for using cuddle fleece for the back.
Trim your block down to size from the back, so you can see that you’re getting batting in the entire block. I trimmed mine down to 10 1/2″ square.
And here’s the finished block!
In the very first photo I showed the blocks arranged in a checkerboard-ish pattern, with red blocks alternating with purple. I’m not sure yet what the final arrangement for the quilt will be – it kind of depends on how many blocks I end up with for each color. Here’s an alternate possibility where the blocks blend from one color to another.
Whatever arrangement I choose, the final quilt will be bright and cheerful and cuddly and warm – just what I want to give a child. 🙂
Update! You can see the finished free scrap quilt here. Along with showing the finished quilt, I also answered a lot of questions people had about the process. Click over to get more details.
A couple of final notes. . .
I think improvisational scrap blocks like this look best when you sort your fabrics a bit first. You can see that within the red blocks there’s a brick red block, a red and white block, two bright pink blocks, one light pink block, and several bright red blocks. Within the purples I have one magenta-ish purple block, three lighter purple blocks, and lots of dark purple blocks. Sticking to one shade or tone per block keeps a little order.
This would be a really fun way to make an I Spy quilt – with pairs of center pieces to match up. I have two of the larger blue/green stars and two of the girl in the blue tree.
If you watched my most recent Coffee with Stacey, you’ll know that I absolutely love knitting socks from self-striping yarn.
My go-to sock yarn, Knit Picks Felici (shown above), has been discontinued. Self-striping yarn is hard to find… it’s difficult to dye and some beautiful ones are stunning but not suitable for socks.
So I thought it would be fun to post a list of delicious self-striping sock yarn!
I love this cute felt gingerbread man ornament – with his dapper pinstriped pants and his fancy snowflake buttons. 🙂
The pattern includes suggested felt colors to make chocolate and sugar cookie versions. Wouldn’t it be cute to make a bunch with different colored outfits and string them together into a garland?
This is the fifth ornament in the Christmas Club collection. Here are all five so far. . .
The club is closed now, but you can still get all the patterns!
I originally designed this spider as a best friend for Nellie the Pig. She was made of light grey felt with a friendly smiling face – not scary at all. This is the perfect little spider to send up the water spout when you’re singing The Itsy Bitsy Spider with a group of preschoolers. 🙂 You can see that spider here.
I named her Aranea after one of Charlotte’s daughters who decided to stay behind with Wilbur.
However – I decided that a spider pattern just wouldn’t be right without a slightly spookier version. I wanted to show you another version that would be perfect for Halloween decorations – something you could scatter around a table. 🙂 This version skips the embroidered face and uses Licorice felt for a slightly-hairy-looking, almost-black spider.
This is definitely NOT the spider to use with your preschool class. It’s surprisingly realistic looking! Jo suggested adding a hair clip to the bottom of the body for a spooky barrette.
And now the pattern is available in the shop! It’s a PDF pattern, so it will be delivered instantly by email.
Crocheting with beads can be tricky. Many techniques call for adding the bead to the stitch as you go, which isn’t great for traveling, and the bead doesn’t sit nicely.
Want to see the beading technique I developed?
In this technique, the beads sit nicely on the front loop of the piece, so we’ll be crocheting through the back loop only. Here’s how to do it:
Step 1: String your beads
I’m using size 6 beads on worsted weight yarn. You’ll want to use the size beads that work for your yarn.
You’ll want to thread all of your beads onto your yarn. To do this, you might find a bead threader to be helpful! Stick the tail of your yarn through the big loop of the bead-threader:
Make sure about an inch or two is through the threader. Now, thread beads on the tip of the threader!
The bead may take a little bit of tugging to pass over the doubled-piece of yarn, but then it’ll slide easily down the yarn.
Thread all of your beads, and then you’re ready to start!
Step 1: Crochet with beads!
To place a bead, single crochet… and on the stitch before you want to place a bead, pull the bead through the stitch as you do the final ‘pull-through’ of the stitch:
This is the trickiest part. You may have to use your fingers to fidget the bead through, especially if you crochet tightly.
Now, make sure the bead lies on the front half of the stitch (in front of your hook):
Finish the next crochet stitch, and your bead will lay right on that front loop! So much fun!
There’s no magic color-changing trick… I just took this photo on a different stitch!
Let’s see it in action!
I know it can be hard to learn from photos sometimes… so I made you a video!
Look how cute!
This is Tipper the Tiny Crab. To make him, just string the beads onto the yarn, and crochet the beads using the technique described above! You’ll follow the instructions for Tipper as they are written in the pattern, but you’ll place beads randomly, about every 5-8 stitches.
Here are handy links to all the posts about faces and details. . .
Because it’s fun to keep a pirate in your pocket. 🙂 Especially when that pirate is filled with plastic pellets for that lovely, squishy beanbag feel.
He’s also just the right size to be a mini doll for the Dress Up Bunch dolls. 🙂
Materials (find links to my favorite tools and supplies here)
scrap of skinÂ-colored fabric
scrap of red fabric for the bandana
scrap of striped fabric for the shirt
 scrap of blue fabric for the shorts
embroidery thread for the face (I used Sulky 12wt. cotton thread in dark brown)
plastic pellets (I like PolyÂPellets Weighted Stuffing Beads)
polyfill stuffing (I like Soft Touch PolyÂfil Supreme Fiberfill)
Use 1/4 inch seam allowance for all sewing.
Step 1
Cut out all materials as directed on the pattern pieces. You should have. . .
2 head pieces (1 reversed)
2 bandana pieces (1 reversed)
1 shirt front piece
2 shirt back pieces (1 reversed)
2 pants pieces
4 foot pieces (2 reversed)
4 hand pieces (2 reversed)
4 bandana knot pieces
Step 2
Trace the face onto one head piece.
Embroider the nose and mouth using backstitch and a single strand of Sulky 12 wt. embroidery thread (the equivalent of two strands of regular embroidery thread).
Fold the ends in half, stack the two pieces mostly on top of each other and sew them together 1/4 inch from the raw edge.
It doesn’t have to be pretty -Â it just has to keep them folded and together. :Â-)
Set the bandana knots aside.
Step 6
Sew the hands to the shirt pieces.
Press the seam allowance open.
Step 7
Sew the feet to the pants.
Press the seam allowance open.
Step 8
Sew the bandana pieces to the top of the head pieces.
Press the seam allowance open.
Step 9
Sew the two shirt back pieces together along the center back line, making sure to leave a few inches open for stuffing.
Don’t forget to backstitch at the beginning and end of your stuffing opening.
Step 10
Open up the center back pieces and press the seam nice and flat, including the edges of the stuffing opening. That will give you a nice clean edge to sew when you’re closing up that opening by hand.
The stick shows where the stuffing opening is.
Step 11
Sew the shirt pieces to the pants.
Press the seam allowance open.
Step 12
Fold the bottom of the head and the top of the body in half to find the centers. Line those centers up so the head is exactly centered on the body.
Sew the face to the body front and the other head piece to the body back.
Flip the heads up and press. The seam allowance should be pressed toward the head so the body remains flat.
Step 13
Lay the body front face up on a flat surface.
Lay the bandana knot over the face as shown in the photo. It should be right at the seam where the bandana meets the head, with the folds face down and with the raw edge hanging off the edge of the head by about 1/4 inch.
Pin or clip in place.
Step 14
Place the body back face down over the front, sandwiching the bandana knot between the layers.
Pin or clip the layers together carefully, matching all the seams first (the white pins) and then pinning as needed around them (the red and yellow pins).
Step 15
Sew all the way around the body using 1/4 inch seam allowance. Make sure you’re catching the bandana knot in your stitching.
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