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Easy Doll Clothes Patterns – Shirt, Shorts and Skirt – Free!

March 7, 2016

New easy (and free!) doll clothes patterns for the Dress Up Bunch!

I redesigned the Play Clothes pattern for the Dress Up Bunch to get rid of the set-in sleeves and fussy collar facing on the shirt. Yay! The new shirt is so much easier to make!

These are the basic doll clothes patterns that are included with all of the human dolls so I was looking at replacing it in Every Single Doll Pattern – which would take forever. Instead I decided to just make it free for everyone!

Download the pattern pieces here.

Click here to jump to the skirt pattern.

Use 1/4″ for all seam allowances unless otherwise noted.

Doll Shirt Pattern

Step 1

Join the 2 shirt pattern pieces into one and cut it out. Place the shirt and shirt lining fabric right sides together and cut the single shirt pattern piece out of them at the same time. That way the pieces lines up perfectly. 🙂 .

It’s a weird-looking pattern. Here are some quick labels to help you make sense of it.

Please note! This pattern only works with non-directional fabric. Since it’s all one piece, whatever is right side up on the front will be upside down on the back – so choose something that looks good both ways. Those fizzy, swirly polkadots are from the perfectly-named Pop collection from Timeless Treasures, and the shirt lining and shorts are in my favorite Sketch.

Step 2

Sew the main shirt and lining (right sides together) up one front side, around the neck, and down the other side. Clip the curves and corners.

This video has tips for handling tight curves, and also info on the how and why of clipping curves.

Step 3

Turn the shirt right side out.

Carefully smooth out the curve around the neck, poke out the corners, and press. From this point on you’ll treat the two layers of fabric as one.

Step 4

Hem the sleeves. Turn up the raw edge 1/4” and press. Turn it up another 1/4” and press. Stitch the hem in place.

You can hem to the outside, so the contrasting lining shows (like I did) or hem to the inside for a more traditional finish.

Here’s a closer look at one of my sleeve hems.

Here’s a little trick so you don’t have to measure that skinny 1/4 inch. Sew the two layers together 1/4” from the raw edge. Use that stitching line as a guide for turning up the first 1/4.” No measuring! Then turn the second 1/4” and stitch.

Step 5

With the shirt inside out, sew the underarm/side seam.

Start sewing at the armhole so that edge is perfectly lined up and finish at the shirt bottom. Any unevenness there will be hidden once it’s hemmed. Clip the seam allowance in the curve.

Step 6

Turn the shirt right side out and press.

Almost finished!

Step 7

Hem the shirt bottom the same way you did the sleeves in Step 4.

Step 8

Press everything and add three snaps. I like using these pretty colored snaps.

For the youngest doll-owners you might want to use velcro instead. I have special skinny hook & loop tape ideal for doll clothes in the shop. And if you’re extra fancy you can use buttons. 🙂

Finished! But your doll can’t just wear a shirt!

You can find instructions for a super easy doll skirt here.

Doll Shorts Pattern

Step 1

Cut out two shorts pieces. Unlike the shirt – this fabric can be directional. 🙂

Hem the bottom of the two shorts pieces. Turn the raw edge up 1/2″ and press. Turn it up another 1/2″ and press. Stitch the hem in place.

Step 2

Sew the center back seam using 1/4″ seam allowance.

If you want critters with tails to be able to wear the shorts, leave the tail opening (as marked on the pattern piece) unstitched. Make sure to backstitch at the top and bottom of the opening.

Step 3

Press the center back seam open.

If you are leaving a tail opening, stitch a box around the opening to stabilize it.

Step 4

Start to make the casing for the elastic. Turn the raw edge at the top of the shorts down 1/2″. Press. Turn it down another 1/2″. Press.

Don’t sew this yet. It’s just easier to measure and press when it’s one flat piece.

Step 5

Unfold the casing creases you made in Step 4.

Match up the center front edges and sew, using 1/4″ seam allowance.

Step 6

Refold the casing creases and stitch it down almost all the way around the top of the shorts.

Leave a couple of inches open at the center back seam so you can get the elastic in.

Step 7

Cut a 12″ piece of 3/8″ elastic and thread it through the casing. Overlap the ends of the elastic 1 inch and sew them together. Slip the stitched elastic up into the casing and finish sewing the casing closed.

Watch this video for more info on using elastic in a waistband.

Step 8

Sew up the inseam/crotch of the shorts using 1/4″ seam allowance.

Press anything you can get to with the iron. 🙂

Finished!

And here’s a view from the back.

It’s Spot the Puppy wearing these and he likes to have room for his tail to wag. 🙂

So there you have it – three basic doll clothes patterns – all super easy and free. The shirt, skirt and shorts will fit any of the Dress Up Bunch dolls.

Happy sewing!

Best,
Wendi

The Dress Up Bunch is a collection of cute and cuddly rag dolls. Get patterns for the dolls, plus all their fun outfits and accessories!

Free Easter Embroidery Pattern – Little Chick with Big Feet

February 22, 2016

Little Chick with Big Feet - a super easy and cute Easter embroidery pattern free from Shiny Happy World

Here’s a super simple Easter embroidery pattern – easy enough for even the littlest kids to stitch.

I originally published this back in 2011 – but now it’s updated with new images and links to video tutorials. I can’t wait to see the new chicks you make!

Back when I released the chickens embroidery pattern, people said they especially liked the little egg-shaped chicks with big feet.

I told you they’d be back again and here one is – sized a bit bigger – as a free pattern. 🙂

Click here to get the free Easter embroidery pattern.

It’s lots of fun to decorate that egg-shaped body for Easter!

Of course, you can fill in the shape with all kinds of stitching in any design you like – but there are a couple of other options that are a lot faster.

You can add a little fusible applique to the project and then just stitch the outline. This video shows how easy it is to use applique as a sort of fill stitch. That’s how I made the sample you see up top.

For a really fun option, you can color the egg with colored pencils before you stitch. There’s a video here showing that technique in complete detail. In a nutshell, fuse some freezer paper to the back so the fabric behaves better, then color it in just like paper. If you’re going to hang the finished chicks on the wall you don’t need to worry about heat setting the pencils or anything like that. Stitch the outline after you’re done coloring and hoop it up for framing.

Look at the cute little Easter chicks my daughter made that way! (The other two chicks are from the chickens embroidery pattern.)

I love framing each tiny chick in its own hoop. They make a really cute Easter decoration hanging in a cluster.

Remember – it’s a cute Easter embroidery pattern – but chicks are cute all year long! You can stitch this to a baby onesie, applique it to a receiving blanket, stitch it on a tea towel or baby bib and more. Have fun with it!

Happy stitching!

Baby Bib Pattern – Adorable and Free

January 29, 2016

Babies always need bibs.

That means the people who love babies need a go to, easy baby bib pattern.

This is it!

It’s a simple bib shape – very easy to make and customize with any appliqué (or other fancification) you like. This pattern includes that sweet bear. 🙂

Make it out of regular quilting cotton for a basic bib. Back it with laminated fabric for heavy droolers. Make the whole thing out of laminate for those learning to eat solid foods. (The fabrics I used are from Timeless Treasures. The crosshatch is my beloved Sketch collection and the swirly fizzy dots are from the appropriately-named Pop collection.)

Here’s how to make it!

Step 1

Download the baby bib pattern here.

Print it out at 100%.

Overlap the two bib pieces so that the hearts line up and tape them together into one bib piece. There’s a tutorial here showing how.

Cut two bib pieces (one front and one back) on the fold.

Step 2

Print or trace the bear appliqué pieces (the last page of the baby bib pattern PDF) onto fusible adhesive. This is the brand I use.

Roughly cut out each shape and fuse them to the back of the fabric, following the instructions for the brand you’re using.

Step 3

Cut out the pieces neatly.

Cut right on the solid lines. Leave a little extra seam allowance past the dotted lines. See the extra at the bottom of the ears? That bit will tuck behind the head.

Step 4

Hold the face up to the window so you can see the markings through the fabric and mark the position of the eyes.

I just use a fine tip Sharpie – nothing fancy.

Do the same thing with the muzzle, marking the position of the nose and the key points of the mouth.

You can also trace over the whole line of the mouth, if you prefer.

Step 5

Peel off the paper backings and layer the pieces together so that the ears tuck behind the head and the bottom of the bear body is lined up with the bottom of the bib.

Here you can see it a little closer.

Fuse the pieces down according to the instructions of whatever brand adhesive you’re using.

Step 6

Stitch around the edges of all the pieces.

I like to use black thread and a simple straight stitch. You can use a zigzag or other decorative stitch if you prefer. If you want a little help knowing where to start and in what order to stitch the pieces, this post should help you out. And this one will help you with managing those tight curves. 🙂

Step 7

Embroider the eyes and mouth.

I did it by hand using this stitch for the eyes, and following the instructions for the mouth in the free Warren the Charity Bear pattern. I used a single strand of this thread. That’s the equivalent of two strands of DMC floss, but I love using a single strand of thicker thread so I don’t have to worry about the strands separating on that long stitch connecting the nose to the mouth.

You can also sew the face by machine. That’s what I did for this cat bib. You can find info about how I did the eyes here. The mouth and whiskers are just a simple straight stitch, going over all the lines twice to make them a little thicker. (For those I traced the whole line of the mouth and whiskers in Step 4, not just the endpoints.)

Step 8

Cut a 1-inch square of hook & loop tape (or use snaps or a button).

Sew it to the bib as shown. Both bib pieces are shown right side up. I attached the loop side to the bib front and the hook side to the bib back, but it doesn’t really matter.

Step 9

Layer the bib front and the bib back right sides together.

Using 1/4 inch seam allowance, sew all the way around the edge. Leave a few inches open for a turning hole in the straight part of one of the sides.

Step 10

Clip the seam allowance in the concave curve around the neck.

For more on the the how and why of clipping curves, watch this video.

Step 11

Turn the bib right side out. Smooth out all the curves and press it flat. Sew up the opening using ladder stitch. (There’s a video here showing how to ladder stitch.)

Finished!

But what about that cat?

That’s one of my favorite things about this pattern.

You can use just about any appliqué pattern to decorate it!

If you’re using my cats, dogs, monsters, birds, flowers, farm animals, safari animals, cars & trucks, or woodland critters, just print out the pattern page for the face you want at 75% and you’re ready to go. Anything else should be resized to a maximum of 6 inches wide or tall.

It would be fun to make a whole set of them with lots of different faces!

Have fun with this pattern! I’d love to see what you make – and I’d really love to see them on some adorable babies. 🙂 Post photos in the Shiny Happy People group so we can ooh and aah over them.

Here are several free patterns that work with my basic 10-inch applique squares – no resizing needed!

Here are several free patterns that work with just some simple resizing. This post about making coasters has info about resizing an applique pattern that can be applied to any of these projects.

Free Bib Pattern
Simple Christmas Stocking
Mini Bunny Tote Bag
Turn Any Quilt Block Patterns into Cute Coasters
Cozy Bear Coasters
The Big Bag (applique on the pocket)
Cloth Book for Babies

Return to the main Let’s Make a Quilt Table of Contents.

Happy sewing!

Everything You Need to Know about the Controlled Chaos Scrap Quilt

January 28, 2016

I’m completely in love with the Controlled Chaos scrap quilt!

A lot of you are too, because I’ve been getting a lot of emails asking about it lately. 🙂 It’s about time to put all the links together into one handy place!

~~I’m still working on the quilting, so this is a work in progress. I’ll update it with new info as I get closer to finishing and post more details. 🙂~~ Read all about the finished quilt here!

The Blocks

Click on the image to jump to the instructions for that block.

Controlled Chaos quilt block #4 - a scrappy quilt-along with Shiny Happy World — Block #4

Block 5 in the Controlled Chaos Scrappy Quilt-Along at Shiny Happy World — Block #5

Controlled Chaos Block #6 - a scrappy quilt-along from Shiny Happy World — Block #6

Block 7 in the Controlled Chaos Scrappy Quilt-Along - free tutorials at Shiny Happy World — Block #7

Block #8 in the Controlled Chaos Scrappy Quilt-Along at Shiny Happy World — Block #8

Block #9 in the Controlled Chaos Scrappy Quilt-Along at Shiny Happy World — Block #9

Block 10 in the Controlled Chaos Scrappy Quilt-Along — Block #10

Block 12 in the Controlled Chaos Scrappy Quilt-Along — Block #12

Controlled Chaos Scrap Quilt - Block 13 — Block #13

Controlled Chaos scrap quilt - block #14 — Block #14

Controlled Chaos scrap quilt tutorial - block 15 — Block #15

Controlled Chaos Scrap Quilt - block #16 — Block #16

Controlled Chaos Scrap Quilt - block 17 — Block #17

Controlled Chaos Scrap Quilt - block 18 — Block #18

Controlled Chaos scrap quilt - block 19 — Block #19

Controlled Chaos Scrap Quilt - the last block! — Block #20

The Quilting

I used Big Stitch Quilting for this quilt, all by hand.

I find it helpful for a project like this, where every block will be quilted a little differently, to establish “rules” for the overall quilt. For this quilt, my stitching within each block runs parallel to the edges of the block. My quilting in the sashing is zigzag angles. I think it helps set that sashing off as different, so it frames the blocks better.

The Tutorials

These are all general tutorials you can use for any quilt project, but they’re especially helpful for the Controlled Chaos quilt.

Choosing Colors (part of the Block #3 instructions)

Cutting Small Squares from Scraps

How to Chain Piece

How to Join Pieced Strips

How to Add Sashing to a Quilt

How to Layer and Baste a Quilt

Big Stitch Quilting

How to Bind a Quilt

There it is! Everything you need to make your own Controlled Chaos Quilt! Of course yours will look totally different because your scrap bins are filled with your favorite colors – the ones you go to again and again. Sew them up into a beauty like this! 🙂

Happy quilting!

Best,
Wendi

Free Bulky Hat Pattern + Bulky Rainbow Samplers!

December 11, 2015

Stitch up a quick and easy rainbow hat using bulky yarn!

Free Download: Easy Bulky Hat Pattern

I wrote up a quickie pattern for you that shows off the wonderful texture and colors in this yarn!

It’s a free pattern, and you can download the pdf, here.

You can knit the entire hat with one 16″ circular… no need to switch to double points!

The hat is sized to fit a woman’s medium (21″ head circumference), but is pretty stretchy, so you can probably fit it on a slightly larger one!

Ready for some rainbow fun?

Download your Easy Bulky Hat pattern. I can’t wait to see yours!

Free Snowman Appliqué Pattern

November 20, 2015

This is a super easy snowman appliqué pattern – and free! Here’s how to make him. . .

Step 1

Download the pattern here. Print or trace it onto the paper side of fusible adhesive.

Step 2

Cut a piece of fabric and a piece of batting 11″ square. Layer the fabric over the batting and quilt the two layers together.

Step 3

Roughly cut out all the pieces and fuse them to the wrong side of the fabric.

I used white felt for the snowman head, and Timeless Treasure prints for the rest of the fabrics: charcoal Sketch for the hat, red Pop for the ribbon, orange Sketch for the carrot, and solid black for the eyes.

Step 4

Hold the snowman face up to a window so you can see the face markings through the felt and mark the placement of the eyes, nose and the mouth.

Step 5

Cut out the pieces neatly on the solid lines. Where there’s a dotted line, leave a little extra seam allowance.

Step 6

Peel off the paper backing and layer the pieces on the background block. The bottom edge of the head should line up with the bottom edge of the block. The hat should overlap the top of the head.

Fuse the pieces in place.

Step 7

Stitch the edges of all the pieces down. I like to use a simple straight stitch and black thread.

Step 8

Trim the block to size. Mine is 10 1/2 inches.

Finished!

You can use this pattern to decorate this simple stocking. Or combine it with this free Santa appliqué pattern to make a cute table runner or wall hanging.

Sign up for the weekly newsletter so you don’t miss more free patterns like this one! You’ll also get notifications of new tutorials, sewing tips and tricks, fun videos, yummy recipes, and special discounts.

Happy sewing!

Best,
Wendi

Free Christmas Stocking Pattern

November 6, 2015

Use this simple stocking pattern with whatever embellishment you choose. Or none at all! The lined construction is easy enough for beginners, and it works with any quilt, appliqué or embroidery pattern.

Throughout most of the instructions I’m using this free Santa appliqué pattern, but you can use any decoration you like. Here’s the exact same stocking made with three different cats from this quilt pattern.

Here’s how to make the stocking. . .

Step 1

Download the stocking pattern here. The pattern pieces print on two pages. Overlap them so that the heart and the edges of the stocking line up and tape them together. There’s more info on joining pattern pieces like this here.

Step 2

Cut two rectangles 9″ wide and 19″ tall from your main fabric, your lining fabric, and 100% cotton batting. My favorite batting is Warm & Natural.

Step 3

Layer one main fabric rectangle with one batting rectangle and quilt the layers together.

I’m showing this from the back so you can really see the quilting. Any design will do – it just needs to hold the two layers together.

Repeat with the other main fabric and batting rectangles so you have two pieces.

Step 4

Layer the two quilted layers and the two lining layers right sides together and cut four stocking pieces – two main and two lining.

Step 5

Decorate the front of the stocking however you like. I used my favorite appliqué with fusible adhesive method. You can see how I do that in this video.

If you’re doing floating heads (like the cats) no adjustment is needed. Just print the pieces out at whatever size you like.

If you’re doing a head that’s cropped off at the bottom (like the Santa) you’ll need to make some adjustments because the bottom of the stocking slants.

On the original Santa appliqué pattern, the beard is cropped off at the horizontal dotted line. For the stocking I left a lot of fusible adhesive below that dotted line and fused the whole thing to the fabric. That extra fabric will accommodate the slant at the bottom of the stocking.

Arrange the pieces on the front of the stocking. Let that extra beard fabric overhang the bottom edge of the stocking.

When you’re happy with the arrangement, fuse it down, stitch around the edges, and then trim off the extra beard. You can use this same technique for any animal bodies that you want to use on the stocking from any of my quilt patterns.

Step 6

Now time to start putting the stocking together! Layer the lining pieces right sides together and sew around the edges using 1/4 inch seam allowance.

Leave the stocking top open, and also a place on the back seam for turning. The turning hole needs to be big enough to fit your hand through it.

Step 7

Layer the main stocking pieces right sides together and sew them around the edge using 1/4 inch seam allowance – just like the lining. Leave the top open, but do NOT leave a turning opening.

Clip the seam allowance in the concave curve of both the main stocking and the lining. Watch this video for the how and why of curve clipping.

Step 8

Turn the lining right side out. Slip it inside the stocking (the stocking should still be inside out) and line up the side seams.

Sew the stocking to the lining all the way around the top edge using 1/4 inch seam allowance.

Step 9

Turn the stocking right side out. This can be confusing if you’ve never turned a lined thing right side out before.

Start by pulling the lining out of the stocking. Then reach into the turning opening, grab the toe of the stocking, and pull the stocking right side out through that opening.

Keep pulling and the lining will start coming through too – right side out. Turn the lining completely right side out. Sew up the opening using ladder stitch, and tuck the lining down into the stocking.

Step 10

You have two options for the top edge. You can work the lining and the stocking so that the seam between them is right at the top edge of the stocking. You only see the lining if you peek inside. Press with lots of steam to set the fold.

(If you want to add a hanging loop like on this cat stocking, cut a loop of ribbon and slip it between the stocking and lining layers before you sew them together in Step 8. Be sure to catch the ends of the ribbon in the stitching as you sew those layers together.)

If you want a little bit of the lining to peek out of the top, leave the batting inside standing up (don’t fold it down) and use that as a guide to fold the lining down over it. Press with plenty of steam.

Finished!

Here’s a quick list of links to all the patterns I used. . .

The free Santa appliqué pattern is here. I printed it at 60% to fit on the stocking.

The Cats quilt pattern is here. I printed the three cats I used at 80%.

The free alphabet pattern is here. I printed it at 90%. You might need to go much smaller for a significantly longer name, or arrange the letters the long way.

You could make the stocking even simpler by just using a really fun Christmas fabric – no fancification needed! Try embroidering a design instead of using appliqué. Or use a couple of leftover pieced quilt blocks for the main fabric.

Play around with this pattern! It’s completely open-ended so you can do just about anything with it!

Here are several free patterns that work with my basic 10-inch applique squares – no resizing needed!

Here are several free patterns that work with just some simple resizing. This post about making coasters has info about resizing an applique pattern that can be applied to any of these projects.

Free Bib Pattern
Simple Christmas Stocking
Mini Bunny Tote Bag
Turn Any Quilt Block Patterns into Cute Coasters
Cozy Bear Coasters
The Big Bag (applique on the pocket)
Cloth Book for Babies

Return to the main Let’s Make a Quilt Table of Contents.

Happy sewing!

Free Cowl Pattern + Crazy Skein Cowl Kits!

October 18, 2015

I used to carry some awesome Shepherds Wool Crazy Skein yarn and I got a lot of questions about what would be the best thing to make with it. I’ve used it for lots of things – hats, shawls, scarves and and awesome cowl.

I wrote up a quickie pattern for you that shows off the wonderful texture and colors in this yarn.

It’s a free pattern, and you can download the pdf, here.

Why is it called ‘Either Way Cowl’? Because I’m showing you two different ways to knit a cowl! Try the ‘easiest way’ if you’re new to knitting or want a really simple project! If you have some knitting experience under you’re belt, then ‘try this way’ and watch my provisional cast-on video for help!

‘Try this way’ version shown.

Download your Either Way Cowl Pattern and pick your way!

I can’t wait to see yours!

Best,
Stacey

EEP! It’s an EPP Halloween Blog Hop!

October 12, 2015

I’ve really been having fun playing with English Paper Piecing (EPP) ever since I got Diane Gilleland’s All Points Patchwork and made my very first EPP project.

I reviewed that book here. In a nutshell – it’s absolutely fabulous.

Every time I look at a hexie template – especially when it’s solo and surrounded by other fabric – I see an eyeball. 🙂 So when Diane asked me to participate in a Halloween EPP Blog hop I leaped at the chance.

The design is super easy. Make a bunch of hexies and then start playing around with them.

I made 96 black hexies using all the black-on-black fabrics in my scraps, and 14 green hexies, two each of all my acid green scraps.

Then I started playing around with the arrangement and joining them together.

I put the matching eyes together in pairs, and then added 1/2″ felt circles. If you make them “look” in the same direction, they’ll look like pupils to the eyes.

Frame your eyeballs in a hoop using this method.

Done!

You could make just a single pair of eyeballs for a fast little project in a small hoop, or a whole bunch of eyeballs for a bigger piece.

How many eyeballs do you want to sew?

🙂

Happy Halloween!

Best,
Wendi

Free Moose Applique Pattern

October 9, 2015

Every time I release a pattern I get requests for additional blocks. It’s usually just one or two people with very specific requests, but when I released the Woodland Critters pattern I got a LOT of requests for a moose block.

Clearly I should have included a moose!

I can fix that. 🙂

So here’s a moose pattern!

It’s sized to fit on the same size block as the rest of the animals in the Woodland Critters quilt, but you can easily size it up or down to use it in all kinds of different projects. (This post about using my quilt patterns to make coasters has more info about resizing.)

Download the pattern pieces here.

Trace the moose pattern onto the paper side of your favorite fusible adhesive. I’m head over heels in love with these printable fusible adhesive sheets because I can skip the tedious tracing and get right to the fun part– choosing fabric!

The pattern pieces have already been reversed so just trace or print them as they are.

Roughly cut all the pieces out, leaving a little extra all the way around each piece.

Following the manufacturer’s instructions for time and steam, fuse the pieces to the back of the fabric. (I use Heat & Bond Lite for all my quilts.)

Cut each piece out neatly. Cut directly on the solid lines. Leave a little extra seam allowance (roughly 1/4”) past all the dotted lines. Those bits will tuck behind other pieces for a nice, neat finish.

Trace the features onto the front side of the face pieces. If you hold it up to a window you’ll be able to easily see the features shining through.

I like to trace a little inside the eyes and nostrils– just so I have a rough guide where to position those pieces– and trace right over the line for the mouth. I just use a fine-tip sharpie or a pencil, nothing fancy.

Peel off the paper backing and arrange the pieces as shown. Line the bottom of the shoulders up with the bottom edge of the block. Remember: the dotted lines show which pieces tuck behind other pieces.

(I quilted my background block to the batting before I started, so that’s what you see here. You can find more info about the “quilt as you go” (QAYG) method I use here.)

Following the manufacturer’s instructions for time and steam, fuse the pieces to the background fabric. Important note: For some brands the fuse time and steam settings for fusing fabric to fabric are different from the time and steam setting to fuse the paper to the fabric. Check your package.

Stitch around each piece as desired.

I like to use a simple straight stitch with black thread. (I go over the mouth three times for an extra thick line.) It’s a great cartoony look that suits my designs, and it holds up very well through multiple washings. Some people prefer the look of a zigzag or blanket stitch. It’s all good!

Trim the block to size if it’s for a quilt, or proceed with whatever other awesome thing you’re making.

Here you can see my block in the Woodland Critters quilt

Have fun with it!

Woodland Critters quilt with added free moose block

Happy quilting!

Best,
Wendi

Doll Shirt Pattern

Doll Shorts Pattern

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6

Step 7

Step 8

Step 9

Step 10

Step 11

The Blocks

The Quilting

The Tutorials

Free Download: Easy Bulky Hat Pattern

Ready for some rainbow fun?

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6

Step 7

Step 8

Here’s how to make the stocking. . .

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