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Free Tissue Pack Cover Pattern

February 24, 2014

‘Tis the season for sniffles. Which means it’s the perfect time to pull out this cute little monster tissue pack cover pattern and whip up some cute gifts! It’s super easy and the pattern is free.

Oh – and if a little case of the sniffles turns into a full-blown cold with a cough and achy chest – take a look at this post for instructions to make a Vicks Vapo-rub scented rice bag – complete with this monstrous rice bag cover to help scare away the cough.

Here’s how to make the tissue pack cover.

Throughout the pattern, the links go to online video tutorials demonstrating the techniques used.

Materials You’ll Need

6″ x 7″ rectangle of fabric for the outside
6″ x 7″ rectangle of fabric for the lining
two 6″ pieces of white rickrack
1″ colored buttons
two 5/8″ black buttons
sewing machine, thread, basic sewing tools

Instructions

Step 1

Draw a line 1/8 from the short edge on the right size one of your fabric rectangles.

Watch a video here showing how to embed rickrack in a seam.

Step 2

Position one of the pieces of rickrack so that the line you drew in Step 1 is just barely showing in the valleys at the top edge of the rickrack.

Step 3

Sew the rickrack in place, right along the line you drew.

Step 4

Lay the second rectangle of fabric face down over the first, with the rickrack sandwiched between the layers. Sew them together using a 1/4″ seam allowance.

Step 5

Open the piece up and flip it right side out. Press. See how the rickrack makes nice teeth?

Fold the piece in half and mark the midpoint with a pin. Arrange the button eyes on either side of the center point. I’ve stacked black buttons on top of blue buttons but you can use any combination of buttons and felt you like to get the effect you want.

Sew the buttons in place, sewing only through the top (purple) layer of fabric.

Step 6

Repeat Steps 1 – 4 to embed rickrack in the seam at the other end of the rectangle.

The two rectangles of fabric should be right sides facing, with both short ends sewn together (with rickrack embedded in the seams) and eyes sewn to the purple layer at one end only. At this point, the long sides of the rectangles should still be unsewn.

Step 7

Sew the long side seams. Leave a couple of inches unsewn in the center of one side so you can turn it right side out.

Clip the corners up to (but not into) the stitching to eliminate extra bulk.

Step 8

Turn it right side out and use a chopstick to carefully poke out the corners so they’re flat. Press the whole thing.

Fold it in half and mark the center points on both sides with pins.

Step 9

With the eyeball (purple) side facing up, fold the toothy edges into the center.

Pin in place.

Step 10

Sew the short edges using a 1/4″ seam allowance. This will close up the turning hole and sew the sides of your pack in one move.

Repeat for the other side.

Step 11

Turn it right side out. Ta daa! A tissue pack! Monstrous on the outside, nicely finished on the inside.

Fill it with a pack of travel tissues (I like to take them out of the pack first - all the different brands seem to open different ways) and he’s ready to go.

Get well soon!

If you like this silly tissue pack cover pattern, sign up for the Shiny Happy News! Members get a weekly email with crafty tips and tricks, links to free patterns, special discounts, and more. 🙂

A Peek Behind the Scenes at My Product Photography Set-Up

February 20, 2014

Remember that survey at the end of last year? A lot of people asked how I do all my product photography. People asked about how I get those seamless colored backgrounds, what kind of lights I have, what kind of camera I use and more.

So here’s the scoop!

My product photography set-up is amazingly uncomplicated. Paper. Foam core. A window.

I’m not kidding.

There it is. My window. I don’t have any lights so this is it.

Early in the morning the sun shines right in there – which is not so good for photography. Too much glare. That means I shoot all my photos in the afternoon – or I have to tape a piece of plain white tissue paper over the window to filter the light a bit.

That’s my big Ikea-hack ironing board I use as a table. I’ve got a piece of foam core sitting on it for a stable surface. On top of that I’ve got a backdrop of two pieces of foam core that are taped together (hinge-like) with masking tape. It’s easy to fold up and store away, and easy to set-up for a quick shoot.

My backgrounds are big sheets of paper in my favorite colors. See how this one is pinned low to the hinged foam core so that it covers part of the “floor” too? That’s how I get a seamless background.

This is what it looks like from the inside. That white board to the right bounces all kinds of sunlight back onto whatever I’m shooting and fills in the shadows nicely. I can often lean in and use my elbows as a tripod, but I also have a little tripod that I set up sometimes.

This is how I shoot almost all of my cover images.

For most of my step-by-step photos and photos of finished objects that don’t need to stand up, I use this shorter set-up.

It’s pretty much the same as the first set-up, but the foam core sheets I use for the frame are about half the height, and the background paper doesn’t wrap up the side.

With this set-up and a step stool (or sometimes a small ladder) I can shoot straight down onto whatever I’m photographing.

Here’s what it looks like from above.

Look at the amount of light inside the box, compared to the light outside the box. It’s amazing what just two white surfaces can do! Sometimes I’ll box in that third side too (I just prop up another sheet of foam core) but usually it doesn’t need it.

I like the way this set-up gives me just a little bit of soft shadow on each object- nothing harsh or distracting.

That’s it! Dead-simple and dirt-cheap product photography.

Oh – and my camera is a Fuji FinePix S700 – nothing too fancy or expensive. I like the grip on it – I can shoot one-handed when necessary. I think it has a manual setting – but I’ve never used it. I like to just point and shoot. 🙂

Update – my Fuji finally died so I bought a new phone with a much better camera – the Google Pixel 2. I love it – especially that it wirelessly sends all photos to my laptop. Fancy!

Oh – and that sweet monster is Byron. He’s one of the Oddballs and totally fun to make. You can get his pattern here.

Do you have any more questions? Just ask in the comments here and I’ll answer them.

edited – Abby asked a question in the comments about why I use colored backgrounds instead of white. You can read my answer in the comments, but I actually have a photo of Byron against a white background that I can show here side by side with the green.

I don’t think the white looks bad – but the green background is more shiny and happy. 🙂

Happy Thursday!

Best,
Wendi

Made with Love? Or Made with Stress, Swearing and Sweat?

February 12, 2014

The next time you’re making something – a quilt, a stuffed animal, a dress – and you’re stressing out about a place where your seams don’t line up, or a little pucker in the sewing, or eyes that aren’t exactly level, stop.

Stop and take a deep breath.

Remember why you’re making what you’re making.

If it’s for a show and you really, really, really want to win a ribbon – well, you really do need to stress about those tiny details. Sorry. (I don’t do that any more and that decision makes me happy every day.)

If it’s for any other reason – relax.

No one else will ever look at your work as critically as you do.

Not only will your best friend not care that that seam intersection is off by 1/8″ – she won’t even notice. She’ll be touched that you put so much time and love into something made especially for her. Look! You used all of her favorite colors! Even orange, and she knows you hate orange.

Your granddaughter will not notice that there’s a little pucker where you attached the sleeve to the dress for her doll. It’s under the doll’s arm, for Pete’s sake! And she’s too busy putting the dress on and taking it off for the hundredth time.

Your son will not notice that the eyes on his new teddy bear are a little crooked. He’ll be too busy hugging it close.

So really think about all the “mistakes” you see.

Will it interfere with all the love the recipient wants to give it?

If you wobbled and have a spot where there’s practically no seam allowance on your quilt and you’re worried the seam will pop the first time it’s washed – fix it. If you used the wrong seam allowance sewing the doll dress and now the sleeves won’t fit over the hands – fix it. If an eyeball is loose on the teddy bear and in danger of popping off and inspiring nightmares – fix it.

If it’s anything else – all those little things only you will notice – then let it go.

Which would you rather receive? A gift made with love? Or a gift made with stress, swearing and sweat?

I thought so. 🙂

Happy Wednesday!

Best,
Wendi

How to Crochet a Picot Stitch

February 10, 2014

The picot stitch is a great stitch to use as an edging, but it can seem a bit confusing your first time!

The stitch requires chaining away from the piece of work you’re crocheting… but don’t fret! I’ll show you how to do it!

How to crochet the picot stitch

There are lots of picot stitches out there, so I’ll show you each of the steps that will get you through any particular picot you find.

You’ll start with a piece of crochet that you’re adding a picot to:

To start your picot, you want to chain a couple of stitches. This is the part that is most confusing… you are making stitches that will dangle off of your work:

It might be helpful to rotate your piece slightly, so that your hook is on the right and your stitches are horizontal:

Now, single crochet in the 2nd ch from hook (and in each subsequent stitch if you have more chains), then continue single crocheting on the main body of your piece.

It’s a picot!

I use this technique for the star in my otter pattern… so it’s a useful one to know!

Here are handy links to all the posts teaching more fancy crochet stitches. . .

Return to the main table of contents for Let’s Learn to Crochet Amigurumi.

Move on to the posts about working with crochet patterns.

Happy stitching!

Zen Stitching – How to Embroider a Mandala with No Pattern

February 10, 2014

Want to learn the basics of hand embroidery with an easy online workshop – totally free?

Sign up for Embroidery 101 here. You’ll learn how to get started, the tools and supplies you’ll need, the four most basic stitches, how to transfer your pattern and how to display your work.

If you already know the basics – sign up for Embroidery 201. It’s also free! You’ll learn how to stitch on specialty fabrics like felt and stretchy T-shirts. Plus you’ll learn lots and lots and LOTS more stitches – all my favorites!

This is one of my favorite kinds of stitching.

Stitching with no pattern.

If regular embroidery is coloring in slow motion, this is doodling in slow motion.

Doodling with a needle and thread. I love it!

When you get into the right frame of mind, it’s the most wonderful, absorbing way to embroider.

Do you think something like that mandala is way too complicated to stitch without a pattern? Or that you don’t have the skills?

Think again!

It’s almost all simple straight stitches, with just a few lazy daisies and French knots thrown in for fun. And I’m going to show you right now how to build the pattern. If you can connect dots you can do this.

One warning here – this isn’t speed stitching.

It’s sloooooow stitching.

It’s enjoy-the-process stitching.

It’s savor-the-moment stitching.

Have fun with it!

Step 1 Start with some circles of felt.

These are small – they’re in a 3 inch hoop. I like to work small when I do this – large can be overwhelming.

I centered them by eye. This doesn’t have to be perfect, but I was pretty careful.

Time to start stitching. The key is to start in the center and work my way out.

Step 2 I started with those green spokes. Come up in the center and stitch to the north, south, east and west points. These are going to be your guides for all the rest of your stitching, so take your time and get them nice and straight. You can stitch a plus sign, right?

Step 3 I stitched in between those spokes to add northeast, southeast, southwest and northwest spokes.

Woo hoo! I have guiding marks for the rest of my stitching!

Step 4 I filled in the wedges created by those spokes. Each wedge got a French knot, a lazy daisy, and a little straight stitch – all centered between the spokes on either side.

You don’t have to do these stitches. Do whatever strikes your fancy! Just try to keep whatever you do centered in the wedge.

Then I moved out to the next ring.

Step 5 I started with the pink triangles. I stitched a straight stitch from the yellow stitch at the end of each lazy daisy (A) to a point in line with the green spokes, halfway across the grey felt ring (B). If you need to see the image bigger you can click on it.

See how I used the stitches that were already there (the green spokes and the yellow dashes) as guides? That keeps everything even and lined up and helps you build a complex-looking pattern very simply.

Step 6 After I worked the pink triangles all around, I added the purple spokes that go from the yellow dash (A) to the edge of the grey ring (C).

Step 7 I liked the look of the pink zigzags, so I worked purple zigzags all the way around, stitching from the ends of those long spokes I made in Step 6 (C) to the top of each pink triangle (B).

I just keep filling in the space, working from points already created. It’s just connecting the dots and filling in the spaces created when I connect the dots. I never plan the next step until I’m ready to stitch it.

Step 8 I created those yellow spokes, stitching from the center of each pink triangle (where the yellow French knots are) to the edge of the grey ring (D).

Step 9 Everything was looking a little stick-like at that point, so I added the French knots inside each pink triangle to change up the texture a bit.

Time to move out to the last ring.

This time points C and D were my main markers, because they’re the ones that go all the way to the edge of the grey ring.

Step 10 I started with the point at the tip of the purple zigzag (C) and stitched a spoke to the edge of the pink ring. I did it in two stitches because it was a wider ring – which gave me the idea to stitch a lazy daisy coming leaf coming out of each side of that spoke/stem.

Step 11 I stitched a couple more straight stitches from just past the end of each lazy daisy to a point straight out from the yellow spokes in the grey ring (E).

Step 12 I stitched the little yellow bursts from the end of each yellow spoke (D), kind of filling in the space in those green points I created in Step 11.

Step 13 I liked those yellow bursts, so I added some little yellow rays coming out of where the lazy daisy stitches joined the spoke/stems from Step 10.

Step 14 I was still liking the pop of the yellow bursts, so I added smaller bursts at the top of each green stem/spoke.

I was almost done – I just wanted to add a bit more color and more French knots to change the texture again.

Step 15 I added blue French knots at the base of the yellow bursts created in Step 12.

Step 16 I had purple felt in the center and purple stitching in the middle ring. I felt like it needed more dark purple in the last ring, so I added French knots all around the edge, one on each side of the green points.

Done! Just take it one step at a time, work your way all the way around each ring, then build up the next level. As long as you stay lined up with your original points – those green spokes in the center – everything will line up and you’ll end up with a very complex-looking pattern.

What do you think? Anyone else want to try this kind of stitching? Do you want more info or to see more sample ideas? I’d love to share!

I hope you liked this tutorial. Want more? Sign up for the Shiny Happy News! I’ll keep you up to date about all the new tutorials here and also give you early access to any sales!

Happy stitching!

Best,
Wendi

How to Do Fusible Applique – all the details

February 6, 2014

Bright orange and yellow applique giraffe with zigzag pattern for kids' sewing projects.

Fusible applique is so fast and easy and fun!

I’ve already got a video showing the basics of using fusible adhesive. In a nutshell. . .

Trace the mirror image of the shape you want onto the paper side of the adhesive.
Fuse to the back of the fabric.
Cut out the piece.
Peel off the paper.
Fuse in in place.
Secure the edges with stitching.

You can watch the video here.

In that video I mentioned (repeatedly) that fusible adhesive can feel stiff.

I also talked about how the satin stitching that’s usually recommended around the raw edges often looks kind of clunky and heavy to me.

But then did a test of some new fusible adhesives I found – a test where I really liked the results! You can read that here.

Those results led me to give fusible adhesive another try in a real quilt – and I spent some time refining my technique (and the way I design my patterns) to suit these awesome new products.

So here are some much more detailed instructions showing how I applique with fusible adhesive. I’m so in love with this technique – especially when combined with Quilt As You Go – that I use it now for all my quilts.

All the images you see here are from the Cuddly Cats quilt pattern.

Update!

In 2020 I changed the way I design my templates, to make my patterns easier to use for people with electric cutting machines. That means a little change in how I do things.

I’m in the process of updating all my patterns to the new method, but right now there’s a mix.

If your pattern does NOT include an SVG file for use with cutting machines, use the method below. You can tell at a glance by looking at your reversed and exploded template pieces. If any of the exterior lines are dotted lines, that’s an older pattern. Use the method below.

If your pattern includes an SVG file, and all the pattern templates are bounded by solid lines, with dotted lines only inside a solid boundary – that’s a newer pattern format. Use the instructions here.

So here’s how to do it – in all the detail.

Step 1 – Trace (or Print)

Trace the pattern onto the paper side of the fusible adhesive. I use Heat & Bond Lite printable fusible adhesive so I just print out the page. Easy peasy.

Let me just pause here for a second and tell you how much this one thing – printable fusible adhesive – has changed the way I feel about my quilting. I despise tracing (I believe I’ve mentioned that here before – ahem) so being able to simply print out the page with all the pieces on it (and labelled, too!) is an absolute joy. I know the printable sheets are expensive and I just don’t care. I’ll never go back.

Make sure you’re tracing the mirror image of the pattern. It should be clearly stated on the pattern. If it hasn’t been reversed for you, you’ll need to put it face down in a window and trace off the back side so you get a mirror image.

All of my patterns are already reversed for fusible applique – and each page says that.

If you’re tracing, be sure to trace the face too. You’ll need that there for Step 5.

Step 2 – Rough Cut

Rough cut around each shape. Leave a little bit extra all the way around – with a little extra extra (at least 1/4 inch) where there’s a dotted line.

On my patterns I use a dotted line to show you where a piece tucks behind another piece (like the ears tucking behind the head on this cat). That’s why you leave a little extra there.

Step 3 – Fuse to Fabric

Fuse each pattern piece to the wrong side of the fabric. Follow the instructions on whatever brand adhesive you’re using – they all vary in temperature used, with or without steam, and how long it should take

Step 4 – Cut

Cut around each piece. Cut directly on the solid lines.

Leave a little seam allowance past the dotted lines – remember – those bits will tuck under another piece.

Small quilt pattern templates with instructions for quilting projects.

Here’s a close up of the cut ears so you can see better. The bit below the dotted line is the bit that will tuck behind the head.

Step 5 – Trace Details

Remember when I told you to make sure you traced the face in Step 1? Now you’re going to use that. Hold the face up to a window so the light shines through it. You’ll be able to see the facial features through all but the darkest fabrics, and the adhesive and backing will stabilize the fabric so you can trace on it without it crinkling up.

I trace just inside the eyes and nose, right on the lines for the mouth and whiskers.

If I were going to embroider the eyes and nose I’d trace right on those lines too.

Of course – you can trace the whole face in a good quality fabric marker and be done with it. It’s durable and easy and the quilt police will not come and arrest you if you “cheat” and draw on your quilt.

Step 6 – Quilt Block (optional)

If you’re doing Quilt As You Go (I did) then you can quilt your block before adding the applique. So easy!

Layer the block with a piece of 100% cotton batting. Quilt any pattern you like! Find all the Quilt As You Go tutorials here.

You can also find color-coordinated fabric squares with the quilting lines printed right on the fabric here.

If you’d rather do the quilting later, simply skip this step.

Step 7 – Fuse to Block

Peel off the paper backing and arrange the pieces on your background block. Tuck the ears behind the head. (Remember – all the dotted lines indicate where pieces tuck behind other pieces.)

Fuse the pieces in place, following the instructions on whatever brand of fusible adhesive you’re using.

This is why they call it fusible applique. So easy!

Step 8 – Stitch

Stitch around all the pieces. Satin stitch is pretty common – and that’s what I demonstrated in this video. But I think it’s often too heavy and looks clunky. I much prefer the simple straight stitch I did here – nothing fancy.

I get a LOT of questions about how durable the simple straight stitch is. So many that I wrote a whole blog post about it, complete with photos of a quilt after it had been in constant use for over a year! You can read that here.

I especially like it in black thread. I love the cartoony effect. 🙂 I stitched around the eyes and nose too. I tried to edit the photo so you could see that black on black stitching more clearly – but you might need to click on the photo to see it bigger.

To get a slightly thicker line for the mouth and whiskers, I stitched over those lines three times. There’s a post here with tips for this kind of sketchy outlining.

You could opt to use thicker thread instead. I demonstrated sewing with different thread weights here.

Done! Now just make a bunch of them and you have a quilt. 🙂

Easy and playful and fun! That’s my kind of quilting! Fusible applique makes all the difference!

Here are links to all the posts showing how to applique with fusible adhesive – my favorite method. It’s fast and easy and (with the right materials) it holds up beautifully to rough use and repeated washing.

How to Applique with Fusible Adhesive – a very basic intro
How Durable is Applique with Fusible Adhesive?
Fusible Applique the Easy Way – the way I currently work – use with any of my patterns that include SVG files
How to Use a Light Box to Layer Your Applique – perfect placement every time
How to Applique with Fusible Adhesive – photo tutorial – use with any of my patterns that do not include SVG files
How to Applique with Fusible Adhesive – video tutorial – use with any of my patterns that do not include SVG files
How to Window Cut Fusible Adhesive – if you’re worried about stiffness

Here are links to special posts about eyes.

Easy Eye Options for Applique
Using Fabric Markers and Paints for Small Eyes
Free Embroidery Machine Files for Machine-Stitched Eyes
How to Machine Stitch Eyes without an Embroidery Machine
How to Minimize Show-Through on White Eyes
How to Applique Dark Eyes on Dark Faces
How to Add Catchlights to Eyes
How to Change the Eyes on Your Applique Patterns (adding lashes or changing to sleepy or smiling eyes)

Here are links to some extra fun things you can do with your applique.

Other Applique Methods

Finished with this topic?

Return to the Let’s Make a Quilt main Table of Contents.

Move on to the lessons about outline stitching.

Video – Quilt As You Go #3 – Finishing Your Quilt

January 28, 2014

QAYG How to Assemble and Finish Your Quilt - video

I HAD to use the post-washing version of this quilt for the video image. Look at all the crinkle! I would never have done quilting that dense without using the Quilt As You Go method. There would have been too much swearing and back pain. 😛

But with Quilt As You Go, look what I was able to do! The machine quilting on the final version of this quilt – the part where I was quilting the whole quilt, not individual blocks – took exactly 30 minutes. I can do anything for 30 minutes! And quilting the individual blocks was so much fun!

Enough gushing about the general technique. Here’s the video showing how to attach the backing to your quilt. It’s pretty much exactly like layering and basting a regular quilt, only you don’t have to worry about the batting. I tried to answer in this video a lot of questions people had after watching the first QAYG video. Really – it is so, SO easy and fun!

Questions I know you’re going to have. . .

1. The Cat Quilt pattern is available here.

2. The cuddle fleece I used on the back is exactly what I carry in my shop. It’s no longer available, but there’s info here about a good substitute I found. I include yardage info for different sizes in the pattern, and also in this post about choosing fabric for the quilt. You could use other soft and cuddly fabrics too – but I know for sure that this wears really well. I wouldn’t use polar fleece. Even the no-pill stuff will pill eventually and you don’t want the back of a quilt you worked so hard on (and that is sure to be well-loved) to look yucky in a few months or even a year.

Here are my posts about trimming quilt blocks.

How to Trim Finished Quilt Blocks
How to Clean a Fuzzy Cutting Mat – trimming finished blocks WILL make your mat fuzzy
Quilt Block Sizes for Alternate Grid Layouts

And here are my posts about how to assemble Quilt As You Go Blocks

Finished with this topic?

Return to the Let’s Make a Quilt main Table of Contents.

Move on to the lessons about basting and final quilting.

Happy quilting!

How to Find Sea Glass

January 25, 2014

Did you know that I collect sea glass?

Yup! It’s a little hobby of mine that I indulge in whenever I visit a beach. How about I tell you a bit about it?

What is Sea Glass?

Sea glass is glass that has been tumbled around in sale water until it’s smooth and frosted (wikipedia says that glass tumbled in fresh water is called ‘beach glass’- I actually collect both types).

The color of the glass is determined by the original color of the glass, as well as some slight chemical changes in color that can occur during the weathering. Some colors are quite rare, with the most common being white, green and brown.

The shape is determined by how the glass broke and tumbled. Although many pieces are rounded squares and triangles, you can sometimes identify pieces from their original glass: like a neck of a bottle.

Sea glass occurs naturally on beaches. However, there is a lot of artificial sea glass used in jewelry and sold in craft stores. Artificial sea glass is made by tumbling glass in a machine, and does not have the randomness or true weathering of genuine sea glass.

How do you find Sea Glass?

For a long time, I’ve been just picking up pieces as I come across them on beaches. It’s very hit-or-miss… sea glass requires a collection of conditions (specific ocean currents, a source of glass…) to turn up on the beach.

This year, I decided to do a little research to increase my odds of finding sea glass. I checked out the beach guides on Odyssey Sea Glass to see if there was a good beach near me.

And there was! Malabar beach near Sydney, Australia was reported to be sea glass heaven. So I went, and here is what I got:

I actually had to stop myself because there was SO much!

Tips for Collecting Sea Glass

Would you like to start a sea glass collection of your own? Here are some tips:

When you visit a new area, google to see if there are any beaches nearby with good sea glass track records. (don’t forget to also find a yarn store when traveling!)
Bring a little baggie to store your finds
Do a bit of research to see which colors of glass are rare, or decide which color is your favorite. It will help you narrow your pickings if you’re overwhelmed with choice!
Search Pinterest for ‘Sea Glass’: you’ll get lots of ideas for storage and craft projects!

And above all, enjoy! It’s not worth collecting if it’s not fun!

Free Pattern – Heart Garland for Valentine’s Day

January 24, 2014

Crafting for Valentine’s Day is so much fun – especially since you don’t have to put the decorations away after the holiday’s over. Hearts never go out of season!

This pretty heart garland is easy to make (Just one stitch! And there’s a link to a video showing you how to do it!) and it’s a great way to use up tiny felt scraps and stray bits of thread. 🙂

Want the pattern? Here’s the link to download it. It’s free!

Download the Heart Garland pattern here.

Stitch up some love!

Have a great weekend, everyone!

Best,
Wendi

Peek Behind the Scenes: My Book Proposal!

January 20, 2014

My new book, Modern Baby Crochet, was released last week… and I’m so excited about it!

The seed of a book is planted when you write a book proposal and submit it to a publishing company. I thought it would be fun to share some of what goes into writing a book proposal… who knows, you may want to write one yourself!

Getting Started

I knew that I wanted to do a crochet book full of nursery patterns… but you need more than that for a book proposal. A publishing company will expect you to explain what makes your book exciting and different from all of the other ones on the market.

I had a look at the books on the market, and saw that there was a place for a book full of modern nursery decorations, particularly using ‘non-standard’ nursery colors like greys, rainbows, neon brights and neutrals.

The process of submitting a proposal varies by publisher, but Martingale (the publisher of my last 3 books) makes it easy: a proposal packet is available for download on their website!

Other Things to Think About

Although the particular questions you are asked to answer vary by the publishing company, here are some basic questions you can expect to see.

What makes you qualified as a designer? What other work have you done?
How is your proposed book different from what’s already on the market?
Can you demonstrate that there’s a market for the book you want to write?
Do you have enough projects for a book? Are you including reference material beyond the project instructions?
What’s your timeline?

Filling out this type of information for my proposal was easier because I’ve written two (successful) books. But, even though I didn’t need to convince the publishing company that I was capable, I still needed to carefully articulate the concept behind this book and explain why it would be fabulous!

Samples Sell!

No matter how amazing your idea is, your proposal might get passed up if it isn’t obvious to the publisher that your idea is fabulous.

It’s important to include as much information about your proposed designs as possible, including sketches and maybe even samples.

Since I typically design stuffed animals, I thought it was important to include (miniature) samples of a few of my nursery designs.

I made a little afghan:

Which, as you can see by my hand in the picture, is only about a foot long. However, even a tiny piece helped to convey my idea for a rainbow-colored granny square afghan:

I also crocheted a very tiny circle:

… that showed the start of the pattern for my Monochromatic Spiral Rug:

Obviously, the size isn’t too important… but it is key to use the samples to demonstrate stitch detail that might not be illustrated in a sketch or written description. For the rug, I was interested in showing the join of the rounds, the non-circular overall shape and the slight spiral of the rounds.

This tiny cutie showed off the basic triangular shape…

… that would turn into the Crinkly Triangle Toy!

Then the hard part… waiting!

After you’ve followed the publisher’s instructions very carefully and submitted your proposals and samples, expect to wait a month or two to hear back from the publishing company. The decision is usually made by an acquisitions team that might only meet every month or so to discuss new submissions.

In my experience, if the publishing company likes your concept but thinks it needs a little tweak, they’ll contact you to discuss instead of tossing your proposal out right away.

This is what happened with my first book, Cuddly Crochet. I had proposed a book of stuffed animals, and they asked if I’d be interested in adding some baby items. And I was happy to!

Materials You’ll Need

Instructions

How to crochet the picot stitch

Step 1 – Trace (or Print)

Step 2 – Rough Cut

Step 3 – Fuse to Fabric

Step 4 – Cut

Step 5 – Trace Details

Step 6 – Quilt Block (optional)

Step 7 – Fuse to Block

Step 8 – Stitch

What is Sea Glass?

How do you find Sea Glass?

Tips for Collecting Sea Glass

Getting Started

Other Things to Think About

Samples Sell!

Then the hard part… waiting!

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