Wrist Exercises for Knitters and Crocheters

If you knit/crochet a lot (or embroider!) . . . chances are you suffer from some achy wrists! I know that during last week, when I was crocheting up a storm, I certainly did!

Here are a few exercises that I do to relieve my sore wrists. Try to give these a whirl every hour or so while you’re working.

1. Swirl your wrist around! I don’t even know if this counts as an ‘exercise’… but moving your wrist in all sorts of directions (especially the directions it doesn’t move while you’re knitting/crocheting) really helps it out.

2. Prayer position. This is a little move I picked up from yoga class… it’s just like prayer position, but you’ll want to raise your elbows a little (while keeping your wrists still) to get a nice stretch in your wrist area.

3. Reverse wrist stretch. This one is the opposite of the stretch in point 2. Lay the back of your hand on a table, and press down lightly with your arm.

4. Rub those wrist bones! Use your thumb and massage all those little bones and tendons (and whatever else) that are in your wrist.

5. Squeeze. With your opposite hand, just squeeze your wrist. This gets all of your joint fluid flowing around.

Update! Stacey added a video showing some of these stretches here.

Happy wrists make a happy stitcher!

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How to crochet a smaller amigurumi!

The easiest way to make a smaller amigurumi is to use thinner yarn and a smaller hook. You can even use embroidery thread!

But if you want to use regular yarn, there’s still a way to do it!

You’ll need to do some figuring on your own, but altering existing patterns is the first step to designing your own… so give it a try!

As an example, I’m going to talk about how to make any size Mike the Microbe, from my book Crocheted Softies. Feel free to try it out with any pattern!

Identify the parts of the Pattern

Have a good look at your pattern, and try to identify big chunks of the pattern.

When you have a look at the small microbe’s pattern, you’ll notice that rounds 1-9 are increase rounds (rounds where you add stitches), followed by 7 plain rounds (where no increasing or decreasing occurs) and 8 decrease rounds (rounds where you decrease stitches).

Start crocheting… with fewer rounds!

Mike the Microbe is adorable as is… but how do you make him smaller? Crochet fewer of all kinds of rounds!

I crocheted one baby microbe by crocheting 5 increase rounds, 3 plain rounds and then 5 decrease rounds to finish.

After the end of 5 increase rounds, I had 30 stitches… so when it was time to decrease, I started at round in the decrease instructions that had 30 stitches. Who knew so many instructions were built into the pattern?

Make features smaller, too!

Follow a similar logic for making smaller features… working fewer increase and plain rounds. Above, I decided to omit the buggy eyes- they were too hard to make smaller!

I also made a microbe adding the eyes that were in the pattern without modification- notice that they’re proportionally bigger on the body… but I think that’s cute, too!

So tiny and so cute!

Try it on everything!

Once you’ve tried ‘shrinking’ a simple pattern like a microbe, it’s time to this trick with other amigurumi! I crocheted a tiny version of Nelson the Owl by crocheting 5 increase rounds and 5 plain rounds instead of the 10 called for in the pattern.

I worked fewer increase rounds on the wings and eye circles… and it’s important to keep in mind that it’s okay if the smaller version doesn’t look exactly like the bigger version. As long as it’s cute, you’re doing great!

Hope you give ‘shrinking’ some amigurumi patterns a try!

Here are handy links to all the posts about crocheting stuffed animals in different sizes. . .

Return to the main table of contents for Let’s Learn to Crochet Amigurumi.

Move on to the lessons for crocheting more advanced shapes.

Happy stitching!

Is ‘worsted weight’ the same as 8 ply yarn?

Is worsted weight the same as 8-ply yarn?

I get asked this question via email quite often, so I figured it was time to answer it in a blog post!

The short answer is: no.

But leaving it there would make a very boring blog post, wouldn’t it? So, here’s a bit more info about how yarn weights are labeled!

What does ‘weight’ of a yarn mean?

‘Weight’ refers to the thickness of a yarn. Yarn can be very skinny or very bulky, and everywhere in between.

Knowing the thickness of your yarn is crucial when you’re trying to follow a pattern or figure out which hook/needle size to use, because the yarn’s thickness (largely) determines the gauge that you will get in your knitted/crocheted piece.

American and British Yarn weight terms

Worsted weight yarn is the American term for yarn that you might spy in Australia or the UK as ’10 ply’ yarn. It’s the most common yarn weight that you’ll find on American shelves… and if you shop in Big Box stores, you might see it labeled as a “medium weight yarn.”

8 ply is the yarn that you’ll find most easily in Australia (which I know from personal experience), and I’ve heard that it’s pretty standard in the UK as well. It corresponds to what is called ‘dk’ weight in the US.

Want a handy printable chart? This post has lots more info about yarn weight – including the different names and the recommended crochet hook size – for each weight

Help! How do I follow a US pattern with 8 ply yarn?

If you’re knitting/crocheting a garment, then there’s a slightly long and complicated answer about getting proper gauge and such when you substitute yarns.

However, the reason I get this question so often is because folks in the UK and Australia want to crochet an amigurumi pattern (which calls for worsted weight yarn), but they can only find 8 ply yarn. . . and then the solution is easy-peasy!

If you’re making amigurumi, what’s most important is that you use the right sized hook for your yarn. So, if you’re using an 8 ply yarn, select a hook size that gives you a nice-looking fabric that stuffing won’t show through.

Your finished piece will be an eensy bit smaller than one crocheted with thicker yarn… but it’s easier than ordering yarn from overseas!

So there you have it… worsted weight and 8 ply yarns aren’t the same… but you shouldn’t let that stop you from making an awesome amigurumi!

How to organize scraps of yarn

After you knit or crochet your first project, you’re immediately faced with an organizational problem: weird bits of leftover yarn. The more projects you do, the more these scraps build up.

And, if you don’t organize your scraps well, they have a habit of tangling themselves together into one giant knot. Not good.

So, even though it may seem a little obsessive… I wind each one of my leftover yarn bits into a nice little ball, and tuck them into my ‘scrap box’.

The Box

My box is just an ordinary copy-paper-turned-shipping box that I got in the mail one day. It’s sturdy, has a lid, and fits nicely on a shelf on my yarn bookshelf. Nothing fancy.

The big leftovers

My favorite kind of scrap yarn is the ‘big leftover’. You know what I mean… it’s a quarter to a half of a skein of some yummy yarn left over from a project. Since these guys are pretty substantial in size, I wind them with my ball winder. I make sure to tuck the end in the ball so that there’s no danger of them becoming unraveled.

Little Bits

Little leftover bits of yarn are trickier… I’m not even sure why I keep them. Maybe one day, I’ll just need 10 yards of bright orange for some project or another…

I just wind these guys around 2 fingers (it’s much too little amount for the winder), and then tie them around the center. Just like the big leftovers, you’ll want to make sure the ends are fastened so they don’t get the chance to become a giant knot in your scrap box.

What to do with the scraps…

Hmm… for now, mine live happily together (and neat) in their box. Sometimes I grab a ball if I need a little bit of a color… but no serious plans yet.

So, tell me… how do you organize your scraps? Any plans for them?

Review of The Big Book of Knitted Monsters by Rebecca Danger

Love knitting cute monsters? Rebecca Danger’s Big Book of Knitted Monsters has been on the wish-list of every monster-knitter I know! And for good reason: it’s packed full of adorable monster patterns. This book isn’t for every knitter out there, so you’ll want to skip down to reading my review to see if it’s for you. But first, I want to show off the cutie I knitted from the book!

Hugo the Couch Monster

I couldn’t wait to break into the book and make a monster of my own! I chose Hugo the Couch Monster… he’s a real cutie! Since all of the patterns in the book are ‘any size, any yarn’ patterns… I was pleased to use up some of my stash! Hooray!

The book recommends using magic loop, but I’m a two-circulars sort-of-girl, and that technique worked out just fine!

And I’m very happy with my resulting cutie!

What do you think?

The Review

If you’re familiar with Rebecca Danger and her adorable monster patterns, then you know what this book is about! Big Book of Knitted Monsters contains 20 patterns for cuddly monsters that you can customize to be any size you’d like.

Besides the cuteness of the monsters, one of the big strengths of this book is the variety of yarns that are used to make the samples. Rebecca says in the introduction that the monsters can be knitted with any thickness yarn (and the appropriate sized needle), and she demonstrates the flexibility of her patterns throughout the book. Every monster in the book is knitted in at least two yarns: often a bulky yarn and a worsted weight yarn. It’s really great that you’re able to see how the pattern works up in different yarn choices… gets your creativity flowing!

One of the weaknesses of this book is the lack of detailed introductory and finishing information. I know why there isn’t: Martingale (the publisher) imposes an 80 page limit on its books. So of course, if you have a book with 20 different patterns, there isn’t much room for details. There are very helpful photographs sprinkled throughout the book, which I appreciate… but there are a few spots where you’re left to fill in the gaps. You’ll be instructed to ‘sew the arms on using a whipstitch’, but the exact positioning of the arms is up to you to sort out from the photograph (or maybe, your own creativity!).

Pros

  • The writing in the book is whimsical, playful and enjoyable to read.
  • The monsters are adorable.
  • Each pattern can be knitted in a variety of yarn thicknesses and colorways, so there’s lots of options!
  • Tricky knitting techniques are demonstrated through photographs: which are much clearer than an illustration.
  • If you can knit on double points (or two circulars, or magic loop), you can do almost any of the patterns in this book. Most of the monsters are fairly simple to knit.

Cons

  • The introduction is sparse. It contains information about how to do the magic loop technique, but you’ll need to look at an outside resource if you need help with other knitting techniques.
  • Other reviews I’ve read have been disappointed in the similarity between the various monsters in the book. I, personally, am not too bothered by this… they’re knitted in Rebecca’s signature style, and each one demonstrates a different shape/feature. However, each monster has a glued-on mouth, and I would have liked to have seen one that doesn’t- since glued-on mouths aren’t safe for small children to play with. She mentions in the introduction that the monster would be just as cute with an embroidered mouth, but we don’t ever see one knitted up.

So, if you like monsters and are comfortable with basic knitting techniques (or, at least, feel confident looking for outside help if you need it), then this book is for you! Happy monster knitting!

How to Clean Amigurumi

Happy Tip Tuesday! I get asked pretty often, ‘how do you wash your amigurumi, especially if you use non-machine washable yarn?’ Well, that’s today’s topic!

I crocheted two owls that I used as cake toppers. Even though the icing was pretty hardened, one owl inevitably ended up with icing on his owl-butt. Ooops.

Even though this owl is crocheted with a hand-wash-only yarn… there’s no problem! Almost all messes can be ‘spot cleaned’ using water and a cloth (that is, unless you drop an amigurumi in a mud puddle… then he may need an all-over wash). I just dip a washcloth in a little bit of water:

And dab at the spot:

… until it’s clean!

Hooray!

Now, what if your amigurumi is really dirty? Here are a couple of suggestions:

  • Try using a little bit of soap in your water for smaller (but hard to get out) spots
  • Soak your amigurumi in a sink of water and wool-wash (like Eucalan). Gently squeeze all of the water out, and let dry completely.
  • Animals made from non-machine-washable yarns can be machine washed without felting completely. The stuffing keeps the yarn from felting as much as loose fabric would. Of course, you may see some felting (due to agitation and hot water), but not as much as you may expect. Try machine washing on delicate with cold water… your amigurumi will come out clean as a whistle!

Here are handy links to all the crochet troubleshooting posts. . .

Return to the main table of contents for Let’s Learn to Crochet Amigurumi.

Happy stitching!

Homespun Boutique: Yarn store in Ithaca, NY


store: Homespun Boutique
address: 314 E. State Street, Ithaca, NY 14850
date of visit: October, 2011

I had no idea what to expect when I visited Homespun Boutique. it’s a store with no website or Ravelry listing… which often means it’s an outdated yarn store with not so lovely yarns. Fortunately, Homespun Boutique far exceeded my expectations!

The shop isn’t enormous, but it packs a whole lot of luxury yarn into a little space. You’ll find most of the brands you’re used to finding in a well-stocked LYS, plus some wools from farms local to Upstate NY.

Half of the store is filled with yarn, neatly stacked on shelves, and other half of the store is stocked with bolts of beautiful and modern fabrics.

There didn’t appear to be a table in the main store area for sitting & stitching, but the store advertised classes, so perhaps there’s a separate area, or a table gets moved in. The shop is located right in the heart of downtown Ithaca, so it’s a convenient walk if you’re visiting! I would recommend a stop in if you’re in town!

Tips for storing knitting & crochet projects

Most of us have a couple of knitting or crochet Works-in-Progress going on at one time. For today’s Tip Tuesday blog post, I’ve gathered ideas about different ways to store in-progress works. Store them neatly, and you’ll avoid the perils losing your hook or spare yarn associated with the project!

I gathered ideas by asking my twitter friends how they store WIPs. They all agreed… storing WIPs needn’t be expensive, but the storage has to keep the project together and tidy.

Questions to ask yourself before selecting a storage mechanism

  • Where do you crochet/knit? If you store and work on your WIPs in the living room, then portability might not be very important. If you tend to carry a few projects around in your purse, then you’ll need to make sure your method is travel-hardy!
  • What’s important for you to keep on hand? Some stitchers keep only the current work stored. Others like to gather up all of the yarn they’ll need for the project, plus that extra needle. Knowing how much you like to store will help you determine the kind of storage you’ll need.
  • What size are the projects you work on? If you love making afghans, you’ll need a larger tote or basket. If lacey shawls are your fave project, then a smaller bag will do. Most knitters/crocheters need a variety!
  • Do you need any extra accoutrements? In this post, I’m showing off different bag/holder ideas, but storage doesn’t end there! Think about if you need any extra tools for storing. For example, if you want to carry around a pair of socks on double points, you’ll probably also want to invest in some point protectors or a DP tube so that your socks don’t fall off of your needles while in your bag.

Storage Options

Ziplock bags
The most popular way of storing WIPs was hands-down the Ziplock bag. They come in various sizes (try the gallon size for projects like scarves, quart size for socks and mittens), are inexpensive and see-through. Since they’re transparent, you can instantly see what project is inside (a must when you start to gather WIPs). As an added bonus, you can either write on the bag itself, or stick a note inside that reminds you of crucial project info.

Cloth tote/ Reusable grocery bags
Many of us have reusable grocery bags in our home. These make great storage bags.

These bags often have handles, which makes them easy to carry around. They’re also suitable for larger projects because of their size. Lululemon bags (pictured above) come along with any purchase you make, and have a snap at the opening that’s great for keeping projects inside.

Plastic shoeboxes
If you aren’t interested in portability, then plastic shoeboxes are a great storage idea. They stack (meaning they’ll fit nicely in a corner of your room) and they’re often transparent.

For your larger projects, you can grab plastic boxes in larger sizes that are still stackable and tidy.

Your yarn store’s bag
You’re already buying the yarn… why not use the bag as a project bag?

Many yarn stores actually keep future-use in mind when ordering their bags… so make use of it!

Fancy project bags
I, of course, advocate re-using bags and making do with what you have. But, every once in a while, you need to get yourself something nice… so why not make it a lovely project bag?

You can purchase project bags in every shape, size and fabric! Check your LYS (they’re bound to carry a few styles) or have a look around Etsy (search for ‘project bag’). Erin Lane stocks a large selection of project bags- including the adorable drawstring bag pictured. I also love the square zippered bags from JessaLu. Have a look around… you’ll probably want to treat yourself to one!

How do you store your WIPs?

Please share! I’m always on the lookout for new ideas!

Ultimate Crochet Hook Review: the review!

As I said before, there’s no such thing as a perfect hook. What works well for one person may be a disaster for someone with a different crocheting style. The best thing that I can do, as a reviewer, is tell you the pluses and pitfalls of various crochet hooks. What you end up loving is going to be dependent on your style! On Wednesday, you learned what kinds of hooks suit your particular crochet style (if you weren’t here on Wednesday, no worries… go do it now!).

There are oodles of crochet hooks on the market, and I didn’t have the time to review them all! And, to be honest with you, I’m not sure you’d be interested in reading all of them. I mean, lots of companies make a bamboo hook… and the differences between them are pretty minimal. So, in this review, I’ve focused on hooks that are different from the rest!

They each have pros and cons… and only some will be suited for your particular crochet needs. Let me know which ones work for you!

Addi Swing

The Addi Swing is the ‘most ergonomic’ hook that I’ve tried: it really is made to fit perfectly in the palm of your hand. It also has some flexibility (the actual handle is some type of plastic, without the metal hook penetrating into the handle), so it’s very comfortable on your hands.

And the hook is made from the same high-polished chrome as the Addi knitting needle (my personal favorite needle), making for low-friction and speedy crocheting.

Even though I love holding the hook, I don’t love actually crocheting with it. Perhaps my hands are too small? I can’t pin it down exactly, but something about the design of the hook forces my palm to be further from my thumb than I like it to be. Despite giving it a fair go, I just can’t get used to it.

Pluses: The handle is super-comfortable, the head is quick and the hooks are clearly labelled for size.
Pitfalls: Because the hook is made to fit the hand, it might not be perfect for everyone’s hand or crocheting style.
Verdict: Totally worth giving a try if your hands are a bit achy. Although, I might try to find a friend with one to test out before splurging.

Kollage Square Crochet Hook

The square handle was invented by Kollage… so it’s completely unique to the brand. The package claims that the hook decreases stress and strain, and is perfect for those who have arthritis or carpal tunnel syndrome.

I have the same general comment with this hook as the Addi… it feels fabulous! But, I have trouble crocheting with it. Maybe it’s me! The Kollage hook has the thumb rest 1″ lower than the Susan Bates or Addi Premium hooks, which for me, is just too far away. However, I think there are oodles of people out there who would love this hook.

Pluses: The handle is super-comfortable and isn’t as ‘hand-specific’ as other ergonomic hooks.
Pitfalls: The thumb rest is much lower than other hooks, which may require some adjustment for folks.
Verdict: Feels lovely, but like other ergonomic hooks on the ‘nice’ side, I’d try to touch one in person before committing.

Susan Bates Bamboo Handle

This hook sports the ‘standard’ Susan bates hook, with a bamboo handle below the thumb rest.

Because the handle is below the thumb rest, using this hook feels a lot like crocheting with a Standard Susan Bates hook. The advantage is a slightly bigger handle to hold on to.

Pluses: The bamboo handle may feel more comfortable for some crocheters.
Pitfalls: Since only the handle (below the thumb rest) is bamboo, the design may not be sufficiently ‘comforting’ enough for those with pain to experience relief.
Verdict: If you’re in love with Susan Bates hooks, and are looking for a step up, give this one a try.

ChiaoGoo Comfort Grip

This hook features a sleek metal head with an oval-shaped bamboo handle, laser-etched with the hook size information.

The bamboo on this hook is super-smooth… I just love touching it! The handle is also very comfortable: fits nicely in your hand without being over-shaped.

Pluses: The hook feels wonderful, and gives a nice handle for someone who wants to hold onto wood, but crochet with metal. Unlike other comfort hooks, the handle begins comparatively high up the shaft, making this hook comfortable for those with smaller hands.
Pitfalls: This hook is about 1/2″ shorter than other hooks, so it may not be comfortable for those with bigger hands.
Verdict: If you have arthritis (that’s helped by working with wood over metal), this hook and the Kollage are two hooks on the market that still allow you to crochet with the speed of a metal head. This hook may not be for you if you have larger hands, but see if you can try it out in person. This hook feels amazing to the touch.

Addi Comfort Grip

This hook features the same head as the Addi Swing (above), but with a much simpler handle. The handle is slightly thicker than normal hooks, and provides ridges for better grip.

The hook is marked only with ‘5’ (it’s a 5.0mm size H hook), which might not be convenient for those who haven’t fully gotten the hang of the metric system. The handles, though, are also color-coded, which is useful for picking the right size out quickly from a whole assortment.

Pluses: This hook gives you a bit more to hold onto than a plain hook, and the ridges will be welcome to people who find metal hooks too slippery. (yes, one side-effect of crocheting too speedily is sweaty hands!)
Pitfalls: There isn’t much ‘comfort’ to this hook except that the handle is thicker than an average hook.
Verdict: If you find an average hook too skinny, this handle will be a welcome improvement for you. I’m not convinced it’s the best hook for those looking for comfort in the sense of ‘lessening aches in hands while crocheting’.

Furls hand-carved hook

This hand-carved hook is a fabulous piece of artistry. I can’t believe someone out there has the talent to make these… but obviously, the folks at Furls do!

The hook is absolutely beautiful, feels incredibly smooth and has a medium-pointy point. The shaft on the hook is tapered, which means that there isn’t a part of the hook that has a resting place for the stitches (perhaps there’s a centimeter where it isn’t tapered? It’s hard to tell.). This feature will probably make it difficult for many crocheters to obtain an even gauge… although maybe it just takes practice.

Pluses: This. hook. is. stunning.
Pitfalls: The tapered shaft is a sticky point. In practice, my loop slides way too far down the handle, giving me bigger stitches than I’d wanted.
Verdict: With practice, you could probably develop a rhythm that will give you even stitches. Functionality aside, this hook is beautiful, and makes an amazing addition to any collection.

Susan Bates SmartGlo hooks

These hooks really do glow in the dark!

I tried these hooks out during my 36-hour power outage (courtesy of Hurricane Irene), and although they really glowed, they’re not meant to actually let you crochet in the dark. These hooks would be beneficial if you’re working on very dark yarn or if your eyes need extra light as you work (as so many of us do as we age).

Pluses: They’re fun! They glow… that’s kinda cool.
Pitfalls: They aren’t a replacement for a lamp.
Verdict: Being a youngster with great eyes (I’m actually light-sensitive, so I’m rarely seeking out more lighting) who works at home (where I can turn on a lamp if I want), I probably wouldn’t use these. But, if you work on-the-go in places where the lighting isn’t great (the subway comes to mind), these might give you the boost you need!

Ultimate Crochet Hook Review Wrap-up

Phew! That’s a lot of hooks! There’s even more on the market… there’s too many to get them all!

I really hope you’ve enjoyed all of this information and maybe you’ve spied a new hook you want to try!

I’d love to hear in the comments about your favorite hook! What’s the one you love using now? Are there any you’re inspired to try? Let me know!

Ultimate Crochet Hook Review: Susan Bates controversy

A few weeks ago, one event rocked the crochet world.

Okay, maybe I’m being a bit dramatic… but when word spread that Susan Bates had changed its hook design, there was a whole lotta chatter about it!

Susan Bates (aluminum, size H) has always been my absolute favorite crochet hook. And, not because it’s cheap (even though it is). I loved the little-bit pointy point and deep groove. It just fit me.

What’s the new design like?
The new design features a rounder point and a shallower groove (although, the shallower groove seems to be the result of a smaller head, not of a change in the depth of the groove, per se).

Front view: old hook, left and new hook, right

Side view: old hook, left and new hook, right
I contacted Coats and Clark (the makers of Susan Bates hooks), and received this response:

The rounded head on the Susan Bates crochet hook is actually the original design for this product. Over the years, many of our long-time consumers have told us how much they prefer the original head as it doesn’t split the yarn the way the more pointed head does. When we were given the opportunity to return to that design, we took it.

Please note that the inline feature of our crochet hooks remains the same; the hook is the same size from the throat of the head to the thumb rest, ensuring a consistent size to all your stitches.

The new, rounded head resembles the head available in Boye, Addi and many other crochet hook brands. However, Susan Bates is keeping its signature inline throat, which is a comparatively unique feature among hooks.

Which hooks are affected?
Most of the Susan Bates hooks are being revised according to the new design. However, I discovered that a Luxite hook I recently received had the design I know and love. I emailed Coats and Clark to find out if it was a remnant, or if the design will remain unchanged. I received this response:

The Luxite hooks up to size P have a typical Susan Bates In Line head. The Q hook has an A Line head. They have not changed.

For now, it seems, the Luxite hook is keeping the old design. However, I could not get any comment on whether this design is be the permanent Luxite design, or if it is scheduled to be redesigned in the future.

Moving forward…
If you were in love with the old Susan Bates design, you have a couple of options: you can switch to the Luxite hook (which, for now, isn’t changing in design) or scope out yard sales for some older hooks.

The Susan Bates hooks are keeping their signature inline hooks… a feature I know many folks appreciate!