Show & Tell Time!

Last week’s Show & Tell post was all about quilts. This week I’m sharing the amazing stuffed animals you all have been making!

A Warren Mobile!

Let’s start with this incredible mobile Tess made!

She posted complete instructions on her blog so you can make one too! Look at the details she added to the bears. . .

Awesome mobile made from the free Warren pattern!

The beard! The monocle! The bowtie! I love them all!

Pattern: Warren the Charity Bear (free)

Sweet Softies and Adorable Kids

I absolutely love this photo that Carrie sent of her girls with the softies she’s made for them.

Adorable softies and adorable kids - both made by Carrie

She writes. . .

I’m just realizing on this trip how much my girls really do love their softies!  That’s Ellie all snuggled up with a Fat Cat. Kate’s favorite way to snuggle with Bertie is to use its belly as a pillow and the big feet to warm her ears!

And look at this!

Adorable softies and adorable kids - both made by Carrie

Photos like this make me so happy!

Patterns: Franklin the Fat Cat and Bertie Bunny. She made the cute kids with no pattern at all!

Beautiful Blue Benson Bunny

Kim made this beautiful Benson Bunny!

Beautiful Blue Benson Bunny made from a baby blanket

She’s in the UK and couldn’t find the cuddle fleece that I used. Guess what she used instead?

I actually made my bunny out of a very soft and ‘feel-y’ baby blanket I bought in a discount store (£4 – maybe $6? – for a blanket 1m x 0.75m) – it worked well, but it was very fluffy to work with! The Soft and Stable was easy to work with and actually made the sewing a bit easier when it was that side down! Everything else I had, so he was an economical project for me. 🙂

He looks so huggable!

Pattern: Benson Bunny

Lots of Warren Bears – All Different!

Kathy has been busy making lots and lots of Warren bears to send to Aids orphans in South Africa through the organization Knit-a-Square. Just look at them!

Lots of colorful and fun Warren Bears - made with a free pattern from Shiny Happy WorldI love how bright and colorful they are!

Kathy writes. . .

You can probably tell how much I love making them, and am building up supply choices so each bear is different. Then each child will feel individual and special, well I hope so anyway. 🙂

I love the addition of the stars and butterflies!

Pattern: Warren the Charity Bear (free)

More Charity Bears

Caroline also donates her bears through Knit-a-Square. Look at the pretty ones she made!

Charity Bears for Knit-a-Square, made by Caroline

I love those soft pink ones! And the brown bear has terrific eyes!

Pattern: Warren the Charity Bear (free)

Fabulous Leonard

Leonard is one of my favorite patterns, and this version is spectacular!

Fabulous Leonard made by Caitlin

I love, love, LOVE the color choices! So perfect and monstrous! And that furry back. 🙂

Pattern: Knuckleheads

A Sweet Warren

I love this bear that Laney made!

Sweet Warren Bear made by Laney

Look at that herringbone tummy patch! It matches one of the squares in the quilt!

Pattern: Warren the Charity Bear (free)

A Squishy Bertie Bunny

Look at the bunny that Patricia made!

A super squishy Bertie Bunny!

She writes. . .

I thought you might like to see a picture of Buster in white velour.  I had forgotten how tricky velour can be as it insists on curling. Happily, our fabric store did have the doll needles.  I made him for my great niece’s first birthday, along with a pile of favourite books my grandsons no longer read.

That velour can be kind of a bear to work with (the curling makes me crazy) but it does make spectacularly squishy softies. 🙂

Pattern: Bertie Bunny

An Epic Pile of Charity Bears

This just takes my breath away!

A massive pile of Charity Bears - all waiting to be donated!

Beatrice made all of these bears to donate to orphanages and cancer hospitals in Egypt, where she lives.

How many?

The photo shows 54 bears, but she’s actually made 62. 62 bears! And they’re all baby safe with sewn-on eyes.

Wow!

Pattern: Warren the Charity Bear (free)

Milton Monkey

Karen made this dapper monkey.

A dapper Milton Monkey made by Karen.

She writes. . .

My dog Zoey want this to be a squeaky toy sooo badly!

My dog Augie always wants to check out the softies I make – but they’re never for him. He can chew through one in minutes!

Pattern: Milton Monkey

A Sweet Piggy

Terri made this adorable round piggie!

Terri's adorable round piggy, made with a pattern from the book Creature Camp

Isn’t she a cutie! Her name is Petunia. 🙂

Pattern: Percy the Piggy from the book Creature Camp

A Pair of Silly Monkeys

Brett made two monkeys!

a pair of silly monkeys made by Brett

She writes. . .

Here’s my Milton. He turned out so cute! My daughter wanted him to have a friend, so she picked out this pretty lady. Love the bow!!

I love the pink tummy! And using the bowtie as a hair bow is a great idea!

Pattern: Milton Monkey

Best Friends

Susan made this adorable Elliott and his best friend, Maurice.

Adorable Elliott and his best friend, Maurice - made by Susan

Aren’t they cute together?

Patterns: Elliott Elephant and Maurice the Mouse

And a Milton

Susan made this Milton too!

a dapper Milton Monkey made by Susan.

I love him!

Pattern: Milton Monkey

AND a Pig AND a Puppy!

Susan made these cuties too!

Adorable Nellie and Buster - made by Susan

Wow – she’s been busy! She writes. . .

I wanted to show you the two softies that I made for my niece and nephew in San Diego. We Facetimed with them on Christmas, and my sister-in-law said my niece loved Nellie – I also included a spiderweb and Aranea as well.

Love!

Pattern: Nellie the Pig and Buster the Dog

A Wee Mouse

Marian made this little black and white mouse as a holiday gift.

A tiny mouse with Santa

She posted about it here. You can find more info there too about that Santa. 🙂

Pattern: Mischief of Mice

Silly Friends

Susan sent in this cute photo of Nellie with her best friend Aranea sitting on her nose. 🙂

Nellie and Aranea goofing around - made by Susan

Patterns: Nellie the Pig and Aranea the Spider

A Silly Snake

My little Snake Charmers pattern is often the first thing kids grab when I teach classes. I love what Emma did with it!

Emma enlarged the little Snake Charmers pattern to make a huge boa constrictor!

She enlarged it (a LOT!) and made an awesome boa constrictor!

Pattern: Snake Charmers (free)

A Spunky Puppy and Kitty

Normajean shared these incredibly cute photos of her new puppy chasing her kitty up in a tree.

Absolutely adorable cat and dog softies made by Normajean

She writes. . .

I bought your Buster pattern last week.  You said he’s a drooly dog, but you didn’t warn us that he’s so scrappy and spunky! The phat cat is still up in the tree!  That’s one spunky puppy.  I didn’t have any pellets and live over an hour away from any fabric/craft store, so I put a ball of fiberfill only in the ends of his ears.  I used a lighter shade of yellow for the inside of his ears and front paws.  Gotta go with what you have on hand!

Love! Love! Love!

Patterns: Buster the Puppy and Franklin the Fat Cat

Can you believe I still have photos to share? Next week I’ll be sharing some of the places you all donate your creations, then I’ll be back with more Show & Tell. I think the next one may be all Dress Up Bunch dolls and clothes!

Happy sewing!

Best,
Wendi
That's me!

Triangle Toys – a free pattern

triangle kangaroo and baby from Shiny Happy World

Sometimes it’s really good just to play around with a crazy idea or set of rules and see what I come up with. Several years ago I was playing with some basic geometric shapes and I tried to see how many animals I could come up with, and how much I could simplify its features before it stopped looking like the animal I was trying to convey.

The shape I had the most fun with was a triangle-based pyramid – so when Mollie at Wild Olive announced that she was playing with triangles all March long, I knew I had to share this idea with her.

Over on Wild Olive today you’ll find the pattern and instructions to make this dinosaur/dragon.

triangle dinosaur/dragon from Shiny Happy World

Using the same pattern and much fancier/hard-to-work-with fabrics I also made a dragon.

A dragon and a dinosaur from Shiny Happy World

That dragon even talks fancy. 🙂

In my book Creature Camp, kids made penguins and chicks using the same basic pattern.

triangle penguin and chick from Shiny Happy World

Didn’t the kid sewists do a great job with these?

Today I’m going to show you how to make the mama and baby kangaroo like in the top photo.

First – hop over to Wild Olive to download and print the pattern and see the basic instructions.

Step 1

Modify the pattern.

triangle kangaroo tutorial from Shiny Happy World

Measure up 2 1/4″ from the base of the triangle. Draw a line parallel to the base.

Done!

Step 2

Cut out your pieces.

triangle kangaroo tutorial from Shiny Happy World

Cut out the triangle pattern piece. Use it to cut 3 triangles in the body fabric, and 1 triangle in the belly fabric.

Cut the pattern piece into two pieces on the line you drew in Step 1.

From the trapezoid bottom piece, cut 2 pouch pieces in the body fabric.

From the top triangle piece, cut 2 baby pieces in the baby fabric.

Step 3

Sew the pouch.

triangle kangaroo tutorial from Shiny Happy World

Put the two pouch pieces right sides together and sew along the top (shorter) edge using 1/4″ seam allowance.

triangle kangaroo tutorial from Shiny Happy World

Flip them right side out and press that finished top edge flat.

Step 4

Make the baby.

If you want your baby to stay attached the the mama (that keeps the baby from being a choking hazard) then sew a ribbon to keep them together. If not, you can skip the ribbon part.

triangle kangaroo tutorial from Shiny Happy World

Lay one baby piece face up on a flat surface. Pin one end of the ribbon to the center of one side of the triangle.

Lay the second baby piece face down of the first, with the ribbon sandwiched between the layers.

Sew all the way around the edge of the triangle, leaving a turning hole where the long end of the ribbon is coming out.

triangle kangaroo tutorial from Shiny Happy World

Clip the excess fabric off the corners.

Turn the baby right side out, stuff it, and sew up the opening.

triangle kangaroo tutorial from Shiny Happy World

Step 5

Put the kangaroo together.

For the most part the instructions will be just like what you see on Wild Olive. You just need to construct the belly piece.

triangle kangaroo tutorial from Shiny Happy World

Lay the belly piece right side up on a flat surface.

Lay the other end of the ribbon down the center of the belly. You can see where the edge is sticking out the bottom and pinned in place.

Layer the pouch piece over the belly with the ribbon sandwiched between them.

Lay one of the body pieces over the belly and pouch layers you just constructed and sew all the layers together along the bottom of the triangle.

triangle kangaroo tutorial from Shiny Happy World

Keep attaching triangles, just like in the Wild Olive instructions, until your four triangles look like this.

triangle kangaroo tutorial from Shiny Happy World

The stuffing hole is in the seam between the two left-most triangles.

Finish sewing up the kangaroo following the instructions at Wild Olive.

triangle kangaroo tutorial from Shiny Happy World

What other animals can you make from this same basic shape? My sketchbook has ideas for a horse, a mouse and a shark. 🙂

Have fun!

Bow Tie Tutorial for Dolls and Softies

stuffed monkey wearing a bowtie made with the free bowtie pattern from Shiny Happy World

Milton Monkey is wearing pretty dashing bow tie. 🙂

It’s an easy and fun accessory to add to any softie or doll!

This one fits most mid-sized softies – you can adjust the length of the strap pretty easily to fit whatever toy you’re trying to dress up a bit.

You can also leave the strap off and add a pin to the back to make a hair bow for a girl doll or softie.

Here’s the bow tie tutorial. . .

Cut out the pattern pieces as follows:

  • for the neck cut 1 piece 2″ x 14″
  • for the bow cut 2 pieces 4 1/2″ x 2 1/2″
  • for the knot cut 1 piece 2″ x 2 1/2″

Step 1

We’ll start with the bow part.

Place the two bow pieces right sides together and sew almost all the way around the edge using 1/4″ seam allowance. Leave 1-2 inches open in the center of one of the long sides so you can turn it right side out. Clip the corners.

bow tie instructions from Shiny Happy World

Turn the bow right side out and press it flat.

bow tie instructions from Shiny Happy World

You can hand sew the opening closed, but it will be hidden when you add the knot so you don’t need to. I didn’t.

Step 2

Now let’s prep the knot.

Fold the knot piece in half the long way and sew, using 1/4″ seam allowance.

bow tie instructions from Shiny Happy World

Turn the piece right side out. Turn the tube so that the seam runs up the back and press it flat.

bow tie instructions from Shiny Happy World

Step 3

Now for the neck band.

Fold the neck band in half the long way, pressing a seam down the middle.

Now fold the edges of the band in to that center fold and press. It should look like this.

bow tie instructions from Shiny Happy World

Fold in the raw edges at the ends and press it flat, refolding and pressing that center seam.

bow 03 end folded 1000 px

 

Sew the folded edges together, as close as you can get to the edge. Sew a 1″ piece of hook and loop tape to each end of the band. Remember – one piece of the tape goes on the outside of the band and the other goes on the inside. I always try it out around a pretend neck to make sure I have it right before I sew the pieces in place.

bow tie instructions from Shiny Happy World

 Step 4

Let’s put it all together!

Pinch the center of the bow together. Wrap the knot around the pinched bow and the neck band. Fold the raw edge of the knot under and sew it in place.

bow tie instructions from Shiny Happy World

This doesn’t have to be super neat – it will be on the back of the bow. While I’m at it (especially if this is for a child), I also tack a couple of stitches into the bow and the neck band to keep things from sliding.

Done!

bow tie instructions from Shiny Happy World

You can easily make a whole bunch of bow ties in a range of colors and sizes to dress up all your toys and softies! Make some up in fun holiday prints to dress up for the different holidays!

Have fun with it! And Happy Sewing!

Best,
Wendi
That's me!

Free Doll Pattern – Itty Bitty Sleepy Baby

Small beanbag doll in a child's hands - free doll pattern Itty Bitty Sleepy Baby

Here’s a free doll pattern to make a sweet Itty Bitty Sleepy Baby – a cuddly beanbag doll.

She’s a sleepy little girl who wants to curl up and take a nap in a special someone’s pocket. :­)

She’s super easy to make -­ great for beginners. And she’s just the right size to be a mini doll for the dolls in The Dress Up Bunch. Fun!

Want to make her?

Here’s how!

Throughout the pattern, the links go to online video tutorials demonstrating the techniques used, or to sources for the materials. All seams are 1/4 inch seam allowance.

Happy sewing!

Materials

• scrap of people ­colored fabric
• scrap of wool felt for the hair (I used black)
• less than a fat quarter of pajama fabric (I used Mini Pandas in pink flannel from Timeless Treasures)
• embroidery thread for the face (I used Sulky 12wt. cotton thread in black)
• plastic pellets (I like Poly­Pellets Weighted Stuffing Beads)
• polyfill stuffing (I like Soft Touch Poly­fil Supreme Fiberfill)

Step 1

Download the free doll pattern here. Print it at 100% size.

Cut out all materials as directed on the pattern pieces. You should have:

  • 1 body front piece
  • 2 body back pieces
  • 1 head cut from people-­colored fabric
  • 1 head cut from felt
  • 1 front hair cut from felt
  • 2 pigtails cut from felt

Step 2

Trace the face onto the people-­colored head piece.

embroidered doll face

Embroider the eyes, nose and mouth using backstitch and a single strand of Sulky 12 wt. embroidery thread (the equivalent of two strands of regular embroidery thread).

embroidered doll face with felt bangs - partially made with a free doll pattern from Shiny Happy World

Step 3

Sew the hair to the face piece.

Stitch very close to the edge and use matching thread.

Step 4

Sew the two body back pieces together along the center back line, making sure to leave a few inches open for stuffing.

doll body showing stuffing opening

Don’t forget to backstitch at the beginning and end of your stuffing opening.

Step 5

Open up the center back pieces and press the seam nice and flat, including the edges of the stuffing opening. That will give you a nice clean edge to sew when you’re closing up that opening by hand.

doll body showing stuffing opening - part of the sewing instructions for a free doll pattern from Shiny Happy World

The stick shows where the stuffing opening is.

Step 6

Fold the bottom of the head and the top of the body in half to find the centers. Line those centers up so the head is exactly centered on the body.

partially sewn doll front and doll back

Sew the face to the body front and the felt head piece to the body back.

Step 7

Fold the heads up and press.

doll front and doll back pieces waiting to be sewn together

The seam allowance should be pressed toward the head so the body remains flat.

Step 8

Lay the body front face up on a flat surface.

Lay the pigtails over the face as shown in the photo. Don’t worry about making them perfectly even -­ crooked is cute. :-­)

partially sewn doll with pigtails pinned in place

Pin or clip in place.

Step 9

Place the body back face down over the front, sandwiching the pigtails between the layers. Pin or clip the layers together carefully.

I match the neck seams first, then the center bottoms, then the dips at the sides and then the tips of the arms and legs and the head.

doll front pinned to doll back - ready to be sewn

Step 10

Sew all the way around the body using 1/4 inch seam allowance. Make sure you’re catching the pigtails.

I changed the thread color when I got to the hair. I didn’t want specks of pink colored thread to show at the seam.

Clip into the seam allowance at all the concave curves and points as shown in the photo.

partially sewn doll body with clipping locations indicated

Step 11

Turn the body right side out.

doll body sewn and waiting for stuffing

Awwww! Isn’t she a cutie? Take a moment to admire your work so far. She’s almost done!

Step 12

Stuff the head pretty firmly with fiberfill.

finished Itty Bitty Sleepy Baby - a free doll pattern from Shiny Happy World

Pour 1/2 cup of plastic pellets into the body and sew up the opening in the back using ladder stitch.

Finished!

finished Itty Bitty Sleepy Baby - a free doll pattern from Shiny Happy World

Give her a big hug and then slip her into a special someone’s pocket. :­-)

finished Itty Bitty Sleepy Baby sitting in the lap of a Pip the Cat doll - both patterns from Shiny Happy World

I designed her to be just the right size to work as a sweet baby doll for everyone in The Dress Up Bunch. Because dolls need dolls to play with, of course. :-­)

If you like this, there are two more similar free doll patterns you should take a look at – the Itty Bitty Bunny and the Itty Bitty Pocket Pirate.

Like all Shiny Happy World designs – you’re welcome to sell items you make with my patterns, but please don’t sell or distribute the patterns themselves. 🙂

If you like this free doll pattern, sign up for the Shiny Happy News! Subscribers get a weekly newsletter with updates, special offers and links to happy things. Sign up here.

Have a great weekend, everyone!

The Dress Up Bunch is a collection of cute and cuddly rag dolls. Get patterns for the dolls, plus all their fun outfits and accessories!

Free Pattern! Itty Bitty Pocket Pirate

Because it’s fun to keep a pirate in your pocket. 🙂 Especially when that pirate is filled with plastic pellets for that lovely, squishy beanbag feel.

He’s also just the right size to be a mini doll for the Dress Up Bunch dolls. 🙂

Want to make him? Here’s how.

Download the pattern here.

Materials

  • scrap of skin­-colored fabric
  • scrap of red fabric for the bandana
  • scrap of striped fabric for the shirt
  •  scrap of blue fabric for the shorts
  • embroidery thread for the face (I used Sulky 12wt. cotton thread in dark brown)
  • plastic pellets (I like Poly­Pellets Weighted Stuffing Beads)
  • polyfill stuffing (I like Soft Touch Poly­fil Supreme Fiberfill)

Use 1/4 inch seam allowance for all sewing.

Step 1

Cut out all materials as directed on the pattern pieces. You should have. . .

  • 2 head pieces (1 reversed)
  • 2 bandana pieces (1 reversed)
  • 1 shirt front piece
  • 2 shirt back pieces (1 reversed)
  • 2 pants pieces
  • 4 foot pieces (2 reversed)
  • 4 hand pieces (2 reversed)
  • 4 bandana knot pieces

Step 2

Trace the face onto one head piece.

Embroider the nose and mouth using backstitch and a single strand of Sulky 12 wt. embroidery thread (the equivalent of two strands of regular embroidery thread).

Use this eye stitch for the eyes.

Step 3

Layer two bandana knot pieces right rides together and sew the sides and pointy top. Leave the bottom open for turning.

Repeat for the second pair of bandana knot pieces.

Trim away the extra seam allowance at the points.

Step 4

Turn the bandana knot pieces right side out and press.

Step 5

Fold the ends in half, stack the two pieces mostly on top of each other and sew them together 1/4 inch from the raw edge.

It doesn’t have to be pretty -­ it just has to keep them folded and together. :­-)

Set the bandana knots aside.

Step 6

Sew the hands to the shirt pieces.

Press the seam allowance open.

Step 7

Sew the feet to the pants.

Press the seam allowance open.

Step 8

Sew the bandana pieces to the top of the head pieces.

Press the seam allowance open.

Step 9

Sew the two shirt back pieces together along the center back line, making sure to leave a few inches open for stuffing.

Don’t forget to backstitch at the beginning and end of your stuffing opening.

Step 10

Open up the center back pieces and press the seam nice and flat, including the edges of the stuffing opening. That will give you a nice clean edge to sew when you’re closing up that opening by hand.

The stick shows where the stuffing opening is.

Step 11

Sew the shirt pieces to the pants.

Press the seam allowance open.

Step 12

Fold the bottom of the head and the top of the body in half to find the centers. Line those centers up so the head is exactly centered on the body.

Sew the face to the body front and the other head piece to the body back.

Flip the heads up and press. The seam allowance should be pressed toward the head so the body remains flat.

Step 13

Lay the body front face up on a flat surface.

Lay the bandana knot over the face as shown in the photo. It should be right at the seam where the bandana meets the head, with the folds face down and with the raw edge hanging off the edge of the head by about 1/4 inch.

Pin or clip in place.

Step 14

Place the body back face down over the front, sandwiching the bandana knot between the layers.

Pin or clip the layers together carefully, matching all the seams first (the white pins) and then pinning as needed around them (the red and yellow pins).

Step 15

Sew all the way around the body using 1/4 inch seam allowance. Make sure you’re catching the bandana knot in your stitching.

Clip into the seam allowance at all the concave curves and points as shown in the photo.

Step 16

Turn your pirate right side out and use a smooth stick to poke out all the curves.

Stuff the head pretty firmly with fiberfill.

Pour 1/2 cup of plastic pellets into the body and sew up the opening in the back using ladder stitch.

Finished!

Slip him into someone’s pocket and send him off on an adventure!

© Wendi Gratz 2014
This pattern is for personal use only and is not available for commercial resale. That means you may not copy and sell or digitally distribute the pattern. You may, however, sell items you make with the pattern.

Like this? Sign up for the Shiny Happy News! You’ll get more free patterns, plus sewing tips and tricks, new tutorials, fun videos, yummy recipes, special discounts and more!

Best,
Wendi
Applique Wendi (with fabulous hat)

Free Pattern from a Failed Tooth Fairy – Tooth Fairy Pillow

I’d like to have a few words with whoever invented the Tooth Fairy.

Seriously.

Let’s start a tradition where a child places a teeny, tiny tooth under their pillow and parents have to retrieve it in the middle of the night without waking the child.

This is madness.

The night after Jo lost her first tooth she caught me frantically scrabbling around under her pillow in the dark, looking for a tooth the size of an apple seed.

She (naturally) asked me what the heck I was doing.

“Ummmmm. . . nothing. Just checking to see if the tooth fairy came yet. I. . . ummmmm. . . couldn’t wait until morning.”

Which she bought, but only because it was her first tooth and she was six years old.

After that somebody gave her a tiny little tooth fairy box that hung from her bedpost. It was just the right size for holding a tooth, but the money still had to go under the pillow.

I kept thinking about making a tooth fairy pillow that would hold tooth and money, but I couldn’t figure out exactly what I wanted to do. By now she’s lost all of her baby teeth, but as soon as I saw this cute new fabric I knew right away that it would make a perfect tooth fairy pillow.

Luckily, you all give me an excuse a reason to keep designing things that Jo outgrew years ago. 🙂

Free Tooth Fairy Pillow Pattern from Shiny Happy World

The pocket is big enough for grown-up fingers to reach in and find a tiny tooth. It’ll hold paper money or fun coins (Jo got a dollar coin for every tooth). And being snug up against a plump pillow means teeth and coins won’t just fall out.

The pillow is also big enough that it won’t get lost in the mountain of stuffed animals that help our kids hide those lost teeth. 🙂

If you have an especially light sleeper, you can add that ribbon loop so you can hang the pillow from a bedpost or door handle. It’s easy and the pattern has instructions.

The best part of the project is that you can position the tiny pocket anywhere on the pillow you like. Make sure not to cover up your favorite bit! I especially like this little block showing how many teeth dogs and cats have. (Sorry – this fabric is discontinued now.)

Free Tooth Fairy Pillow Pattern from Shiny Happy World

Jo would have latched right on to fun facts like this! She also would have liked the grossness of the picture of tooth decay. 🙂

Ready to make your own?

Download the free tooth fairy pillow pattern here.

And I’d love to hear some tooth fairy stories from others! Surely (hopefully) I wasn’t the only abject failure out there?

Happy stitching!

Free Pattern – The Gobbler – A Pencil Eating Monster

The Gobbler - a free monster pencil case pattern from Shiny Happy World

I call this pencil-eating pouch The Gobbler.

It’s so much fun to choose fabrics and sew this project! If you can sew a straight line and sew on buttons – you can make The Gobbler.

You can make it even if you’ve never sewn a straight line – the pattern has links to videos teaching you everything you need to know. 🙂

This video shows how to cut fabric using rotary cutting tools.

This video shows how to sew a straight line and turn corners.

Materials

  • 1 fat quarter of fabric for the outside of the pouch
  • 1 fat quarter of fabric for the inside of the pouch
  • scraps of fabric for the hair/spikes
  • two 7/8 inch buttons for the eyes (I stacked smaller black buttons on top of these buttons)
  • two 3/16″ buttons for the nostrils (optional)
  • 9 inch zipper

The hardest part of this project is getting the fabric facing the right direction, so pay special attention to those parts of the instructions.

Step 1

Cut out all materials.

For the top of the face cut one wide rectangle 3″ tall and 10″ wide. Cut the same size from the lining fabric.

For the bottom of the face cut one narrow rectangle 2″ tall and 10″ wide. Cut the same size from the lining fabric.

Wait to cut the pieces for the back of the pouch. The size will vary depending on the width of your zipper, how close to the teeth your zipper foot lets you get, etc.

For the pointy spikes cut five 3″ squares.

Step 2

Lay the wider rectangle in the outside fabric face up on a flat surface.

Lay the zipper face down over the fabric. Make sure the teeth of the zipper (not the zipper tape) are centered over the rectangle. Line the edge of the zipper tape up with the edge of the fabric and pin in place.

Click here for a video showing how to do this kind of zipper installation.

Step 3

Lay the wider rectangle in the lining fabric face down over the rectangle from Step 2, with the zipper sandwiched between the two layers of fabric.

Pin or clip the layers in place.

Step 4

Sew the three layers together (outer rectangle, lining rectangle and zipper) getting as close to the teeth of the zipper as possible. You’ll want to stop partway along the seam to move the zipper pull out of your way. Watch this video for tips.

If you have a zipper foot, that will let you get very close to the teeth. If you don’t have a zipper foot, just get as close as you can. You’ll have a little more zipper tape showing in the finished pouch and it will be fine.

Step 5

Flip the fabric rectangles right side out and press.

On the right side of the zipper (where the pull is) you should have the right side of the outer fabric showing. If you flip the whole thing over you should have the right side of the lining fabric showing.

Step 6

Repeat Steps 2-5 with the narrower fabric rectangles and the other side of the zipper for the bottom of the face.

Remember ­- the right side of the outer fabric should be facing the right side of the zipper and the right side of the lining fabric when you sew.

You’re done with the front of the pouch!

Here’s the view of the same piece from the inside. You should be seeing the right side of the lining fabric.

Step 7

Sew on some fun features! I stacked black buttons on top of larger blue buttons for the eyes, and sewed on tiny black buttons for the nostrils.

Play around and have fun with these! Add one giant button to make a cyclops. Embroider on some eyebrows. Skip the nostrils. Make it your own!

You’ll be sewing all around the outside of the pouch using 1/2″ seam allowance ­- so make sure to take that into account when you position your eyes and other features.

Flip the lining piece out of the way so you’re only sewing through the outer fabric.

Step 8

Measure the finished piece. It should be 10 inches wide, but the height will vary depending on the chunkiness of the zipper you’re using, and how close to the teeth you were able to stitch. Mine was 10″ wide and 4 7/8″ tall.

Use the measurements of your finished face to cut two back pouch pieces to match it. Cut one from the outer fabric and one from the lining fabric.

Step 9

For the hair/spikes we’ll be making some prairie points. It’s really easy -­ just folding!

Fold one of your squares in half along the diagonal.

Press.

Now fold it in half again, so that all the raw edges are lined up along the longest edge of the triangle.

Press.

Done! Repeat for the other four squares.

Step 10

Ready to put it all together?

Pin the prairie points along the top edge of the face. I start by folding the face in half to find the center. Pin the center point in place first, then pin the two at the edges, then center the last two between them.

All the raw edges of the prairie points should be lined up with the raw edges of the outer and lining fabrics.

Step 11

Unzip the zipper mouth at least part way. This is very important! If you forget, you won’t be able to turn your pouch right side out after the next step!

Lay the outer fabric rectangle (the one you cut in Step 8) face down over the face, with the prairie points sandwiched between the two layers.

Lay the lining rectangle face up over the outer fabric. Pin all the layers together all the way around the edges.

Step 12

Sew all the way around the edge using 1/2″ seam allowance. That should have you sewing right up against the bumpy ends of the zipper.

Trim away your excess seam allowance with pinking shears. That will keep the fabric from fraying too badly -­ plus it looks cute. :­)

Leave about 1/4″ seam allowance.

Step 13

Turn the pouch right side out and poke out the corners with a chopstick. You’re done! See how cute the contrasting lining inside the mouth looks?

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Happy sewing!

Best,
Wendi
That's me!

 

How I Care for My Fabric Scissors

The Great Scissor Rotation - how to get the most use out of every pair of scissors

Everyone knows not to use your good fabric scissors on paper, right?

RIGHT?

Today I thought I’d go beyond that very basic info with some extra detail on how I manage all my scissors – including my fabric scissors. This is going to answer a few questions that I get all the time.

Do you use expensive scissors?

Nope. Don’t get me wrong – I’m a big fan of high quality tools. I KNOW that quality scissors are better than cheap ones. But I also know that I am terrible at things like. . . bringing scissors in to get them professionally sharpened.

Good quality scissors that are painfully dull because I don’t know how to sharpen them myself and I can’t seem to coordinate my life well enough to get them professionally sharpened are worse than cheap scissors.

I can get a decent pair of Fiskars sewing shears at any big box fabric or craft store for under $20 – and then replace them every year. More on that replacement in a bit. . .

Which scissors do you use for cutting fabric and paper together – like with fusible adhesive or freezer paper?

Ah – that brings me to The Great Scissor Rotation.

I keep three pairs of big scissors in my fabric room. (This is only about the big scissors (shears, if you want to get technical) – I also have spring-loaded snips at the sewing machine and an assortment of tiny scissors for precision work.)

My newest pair of scissors is for fabric only.

When I bring in a new pair, the old fabric scissors become the scissors I use for fabric fused to paper.

(Update! I’ve discovered some specialty scissors that I REALLY love for cutting applique pieces, so now I use these for that purpose exclusively, and I leave this step out of my rotation)

The old fabric-fused-to-paper scissors become my paper scissors.

My old paper scissors move into the kitchen for snipping herbs, cutting waffles into dipping strips, cutting open packaging, etc.

And my old kitchen scissors move into the toolbox for real heavy duty work.

The scissors that were in the toolbox are usually totally destroyed by this time and they finally go in the trash.

I buy a new pair of scissors about once a year. While that may seem wasteful at $20 a pair when I could buy a quality pair that will last a lifetime for just under $100 – every pair of scissors I bring in gets used for about five years. Not bad at all! And I never need to coordinate bringing them in to be sharpened. 🙂

I mentioned above that this rotation only applies to basic shears. I do have some other specialty scissors that I love and am very particular about.

By the way – because I know someone is going to ask. I do sharpen my kitchen knives – but sharpening scissors is a different matter, one that I’ve been told repeatedly is best left to professionals. The angle of the sharpening is very different and you need to get both blades to work together. It’s more complicated and beyond my rudimentary knife-sharpening skills.

Here are handy links to all the posts about quilting tools and supplies.

Sewing Machine

Iron

Rotary Cutting Tools

Scissors

Other General Sewing Room Supplies

One More Hugely Popular Post that Seems to Fit Here Better than Anywhere Else

Return to the Let’s Make a Quilt main Table of Contents.

Move on to the posts about choosing your quilt pattern.

Happy stitching!

Video – How to Sew Boxed Corners

How to Sew Boxed Corners - video

Why do I need to know how to sew boxed corners? I don’t even know what a boxed corner is!

Well – it’s a simple way of adding depth to a fabric shape. It’s what makes this mini tote bag (there’s a free pattern here) fat instead of flat.

yellow tote bag with an embroidered pink bird - demonstrating how to sew boxed corners. Mini Tote Bag - a free pattern from Shiny Happy World

And it’s what gives these little mice nice fat bottoms.

Blue and green mice made with the Mischief of Mice softie sewing pattern from Shiny Happy World

Look – this guy will show you his.

A closer look at the boxed corners at the bottom of a mouse softie, demonstrating how to sew boxed corners.

I describe how to sew boxed corners in the Mischief of Mice pattern, but someone asked for a video to help clarify the process.

Ask and you shall receive!

See how easy it is?

The trickiest part is getting the seam aligned, but if you open the seams (like you see in that photo above) it’s really easy to see where they line up.

You’ll run into instructions to sew boxed corners in a lot of pillow and cushion patterns, but I don’t often sew pillows and cushions. I prefer to sew covers for ready-made pillow inserts. But I use the technique a lot for bags and softies!

Here are a few more patterns that use this technique. . .

Goody Bags - free sewing pattern from Shiny Happy World

These goody bags are great little gift bags or party favor bags.

The Big Bag - a free tote bag pattern from Shiny Happy World

This big tote bag is my favorite for grocery shopping.

Knuckleheads - monster softie pattern from Shiny Happy World

And I love these fun and easy monsters. You can mix and match the parts to create your own variations.

Lots of ways to use easy boxed corners!

Happy stitching!

Evolution of a Mouse – a Peek at the Design Process

I designed a cute little mouse pattern, and I thought I’d share a bit of the design process with you.

The Head

I knew that I wanted to have his head be part of the body structure, just folded over. The original inspiration was this owl.

Orville the Owl softie pattern from Shiny Happy World

I designed it especially for quick and easy sewing (I need to make them with twenty kids at a Harry Potter Camp I was teaching – you can see all the details here).

When I was playing with that design I noticed that sometimes the bit folded over for the top of his head looked kind of mouse-like. If I stuffed it before folding it over it just might work – and I filed that thought away for later.

Well – now was later!

The Bottom

I also knew I wanted his body to be fat – so that his feet would disappear when he sat up on his back legs. (He actually has no feet – but the shape of his body makes them look like they’re just hidden.)

Usually if I want a fat bottom I design a flat pattern piece for the base and set it in, but that can be fussy sewing on a softie this small – and I avoid fussy sewing whenever possible. 🙂

I decided to use a technique that I use on all my tote bags. You’ll see it too in pillow corners – to give the pillow more fatness. It’s a way of boxing in the corners to add depth. I’ve used it before on these monsters and it was really easy to sew, so I decided to try it here. The final result looks like this.

Mischief of Mice - softie sewing pattern from Shiny Happy World

He’s not dead – he’s just lying on his back so we can see his bottom. 🙂

See how the “corners” of the body are boxed in? This is very easy to sew.

The Ugly Part of the Design Process

So – that was two design decisions made. Time to start some prototypes.

I sew these out of a yucky white sheet with whatever thread I happen to have in my sewing machine. They’re not pretty, but they let me work out the details of the pattern pieces.

Three Mice - prototypes of the Mischief of Mice softie pattern by Shiny Happy World

Sometimes the very first prototype is just right, but usually I have to try at least a few variations before things get good. I lost track of the number of prototypes I tried for this “simple” mouse – but these were the three still sitting on my table when I was done. Sometimes I take out the stuffing and resew a couple of seams – like to take in the sides a bit – instead of starting a whole new prototype.

The proportions on the first one were pretty good. I would have done a second round to make his body a little wider – but overall he was just too big.

The second one was better size-wise. But when I stuffed him properly he was just too tall, and when I took out some of the stuffing to make him shorter, he just looked hunchbacked.

The third one was just about right.

Time to add some details – ears, paws and a tail. I usually leave them off in the first round so I can just focus on the basic body shape.

The Details

When I start to add all the other bits and pieces, I usually cut them out of paper first and pin them to the softie. That’s a quick and easy way to check proportion and placement. Then I use those as pattern pieces and make up another prototype all from fabric.

It usually takes a bit of tweaking to get things just right – the size of the ears, the length of the paws, the thickness of the tail. In this case my original tail was too skinny to turn right side out. I had to redesign it so these turning tubes would fit inside. 🙂

Mouse prototype - one step in the design process at Shiny Happy WorldI’m picky about eyes – I’ve written about my obsession with eye placement here and here. The main thing to remember is that the shape of the face can change a lot after stuffing – so I always just draw the eyes on a stuffed prototype. Usually I’ll also poke holes and try out a few different eye sizes. I pick the final prototype apart and trace that eye placement onto the final pattern pieces.

Cuteness!

The final step, of course, is to make him out of cute fabric. 🙂

I knew that I wanted him to be made of quilting cotton, because I wanted to use colorful, patterned fabric.

I couldn’t choose a color, and I couldn’t stop at one. I made a whole mischief of mice in a rainbow of colors – and I love them!

Mischief of Mice - an easy sewing pattern from Shiny Happy World

Finished!

So now you’ve seen the ugliness behind the scenes in the design process. 🙂

You can get the finished pattern here.

Happy sewing!

Best,
Wendi
That's me!