Buzz – a Free Bird Applique Pattern

Free Buzz the Bird applique pattern from Shiny Happy World - blue bird with zigzag stripes on a green background

Here’s a free bird applique pattern for you to play with!

The Chirp Quilt pattern has thirteen different applique birds in it.

I usually do twelve, but this time I added one more because I wanted to balance out right, left and forward facing birds.

So I decided to make one of the blocks available as a free bird applique pattern – and I let you all choose which one would be free!

Thanks so much to everyone who voted!

The winner was Buzz, this cardinal-ish, blue jay-ish bird. 🙂

Here’s how to make him. (This video shows all the steps for working with fusible adhesive – if you’ve never done it before you’ll find it helpful.)

Step 1

Download the template pieces here.

Step 2

Trace or print the pattern onto the paper side of the fusible adhesive.

Free Buzz the Bird applique pattern from Shiny Happy World

I use this printable fusible adhesive so I just printed out the page. No tracing!

The image has already been reversed, so just trace or print. If you’re tracing, be sure to trace the eye too. You’ll need that there for Step 6.

Free Buzz the Bird applique pattern from Shiny Happy World

Step 3

Rough cut around each shape.

Leave a little bit extra all the way around ­- a little extra extra (at least 1/4 inch) where there’s a dotted line ­- the base of the tail and the edge of the beak.

Step 4

Free Buzz the Bird applique pattern from Shiny Happy World

Fuse each pattern piece to the wrong side of the fabric.

Step 5

Cut around each piece. Cut directly on the solid lines.

Free Buzz the Bird applique pattern from Shiny Happy World

Leave a little seam allowance on the dotted lines ­- the base of the tail and the beak will tuck under the main body piece.

Step 6

Remember when I told you to make sure you traced the eye in Step 2? Now you’re going to use that. Hold the face up to a window so the light shines through it. You’ll be able to see the eye, and the adhesive will stabilize the fabric so you can trace on it without it crinkling up.

Free Buzz the Bird applique pattern from Shiny Happy World

I traced just inside the eye.

This eye is pretty small. You can absolutely do it with applique, but if you prefer, you can use fabric paint or markers. This post has more info.

Step 7

If you’re doing Quilt As You Go (I did) then you can quilt your block before adding the applique. So easy!

Free Buzz the Bird applique pattern from Shiny Happy World

Cut your background fabric and a piece of 100% cotton batting 11 inches square.

Layer the block with a piece of 100% cotton batting. Quilt any pattern you like!

Find all the Quilt As You Go tutorials here.

If you’ll do the quilting later, simply skip this step.

Step 8

Peel off the paper backing and arrange the pieces on a background block. Tuck the tail and beak behind the body.

Remember -­ all the dotted lines indicate where pieces tuck behind other pieces.

Free Buzz the Bird applique pattern from Shiny Happy World

Fuse the pieces in place.

Step 9

Stitch around all the pieces.

Free Buzz the Bird applique pattern from Shiny Happy World

I just did simple straight line stitching in black thread. I love the cartoony effect. This video has some tips for outlining those tight curves.

Done!

One bird applique pattern – complete!

If you’re making a one-block project, go ahead and finish it up.

If you’re making a bunch of Buzz blocks to join into a quilt -­ have fun!

What can you do with just one block pattern? Tons of things! Check out this page I’ve been slowly building – 100 Things to Do with an Applique Pattern. 🙂

Have fun! And share a photo of what you make! You can share it in the Shiny Happy People group or tag it with #shinyhappyworld on Instagram.

If you like this free pattern, sign up for the Shiny Happy News! Subscribers get a weekly newsletter full of sewing tips and tricks, free patterns, special discounts, and other things to make you smile. 🙂

Happy sewing!

Warren the Charity Bear – a free teddy bear pattern

Warren the Charity Bear - a free pattern from Shiny Happy World

I designed the free Warren pattern especially for people who want to make bears for donations. I had a few goals in mind as I worked on his design. . .

  1. He had to be easy to make. Easy enough for kids to make.
  2. He needed to be a good, huggable size.
  3. I wanted him to have mix & match parts – so you could make a hundred of them and never get bored.
  4. He needed to be pretty foolproof – it doesn’t matter if his features are precisely positioned. It’s ok if he’s stuffed a little loose or a little tight. It’s all good. 🙂
  5. He needed to work well with easy-to-find polar fleece – but also work well with fancier fabrics like minky and cuddle fleece.

Jo and I tested this pattern a LOT – and then I used the pattern to teach softie-making to a bunch of kids – and then Jo and I made a bunch more. And now he’s ready to share. I can’t wait to see the bears that YOU make with him!

One note – I designed this pattern especially for charitable giving – but of course I’m giving it to you with no strings attached. Make bears for yourself and your kids and grandkids. Use the pattern when you teach. Sell finished bears. The pattern is yours! Make whatever you want with it! If you want to make bears to donate, I suggest the following places. . .

  • homeless shelters
  • battered women’s shelters
  • fire departments
  • police departments
  • children’s hospitals (check first to see if they have special requirements about the materials they’re made with)
  • Please suggest other places in the comments!

Here’s how to make him!

Prepare the Pattern

Download the pattern here. Print it out at 100%. Layer the two pieces together, overlapping so the edges of the pattern and the little hearts line up. Tape the pieces together into one large pattern piece and cut it out. I like to punch holes where the eyes are to make marking their placement easy.

Cut Out the Body

Lay the pattern on the fabric so the stretch of the fabric goes across the bear’s belly. You want him to stretch wide – not tall. 🙂

Cut two body pieces.

Warren the Charity Bear - a free teddy bear pattern from Shiny Happy World

Mark the placement of the eyes on the front piece.

Applique Any Parts

Cut any muzzles or belly pieces you want to use out of felt and applique them in place. Just stitch them close to the edge with a basic straight stitch. Nothing fancy. If you have trouble on the tight curves of some of the smaller pieces, watch this video for help.

Warren the Charity Bear - a free teddy bear pattern from Shiny Happy World

There are two different muzzle patterns so you can give your bear a wide muzzle, a tall muzzle or no muzzle. You can see the three nose sizes in these photos too. 🙂

Warren the Charity Bear - a free teddy bear pattern from Shiny Happy WorldYou can also give him a belly patch, a heart patch, or no patch.

Embroider the Mouth

Warren the Charity Bear - a free teddy bear pattern from Shiny Happy World

Thread a needle with a full six strands of black embroidery thread and knot the end. You’ll embroider the mouth in three stitches, always coming up at point A and going down at point B. If the A’s on the second and third stitches are above the B, your bear will be smiling. If the A’s are below the B he’ll be frowning. Don’t worry about making the sides exactly even. Crooked smiles are sweet. 🙂

Pop in Some Safety Eyes

I carry several sizes of safety eyes and three work well for these bears.

Warren the Charity Bear - a free teddy bear pattern from Shiny Happy WorldThe small ones are 6 mm, the medium are 9 mm, and the large are 12 mm.

There are more eye options too. . .

Warren the Charity Bear - a free teddy bear pattern from Shiny Happy WorldIf you want to use black eyes on black fabric, you might want to back them with a circle of colored felt so you can see them.

Mismatched eyes are always fun.

And even if the eyes don’t go exactly where they’re supposed to, the results are cute. 🙂

If you’re making your bears for kids under three, you’ll want to embroider the eyes instead of using safety eyes. Here’s a tutorial showing the stitch I use.

Sew Up Your Bear

Layer your bear front and bear back pieces right sides together and pin or clip the layers in place.

Sew around the edge using 1/4″ seam allowance, leaving a stuffing opening on the side of one leg.

Warren the Charity Bear - a free teddy bear pattern from Shiny Happy World

If you’re using a fabric that has no stretch, you’ll need to clip into all the concave curves. Watch this video for the why and how. Polar fleece, minky and cuddle fleece don’t need this step – they have a natural stretch that will allow the curves to turn smoothly without clipping.

Finish Your Bear

Turn your bear right side out and stuff it.

Make sure you get some stuffing in his ears and arms before you fill up the big body – once you block access to those bits it’s hard to get back in there. Watch this video for some stuffing tips.

Here’s a review of my favorite stuffing. I like Fairfield Brand Poly-fil Supreme Fiberfill – it really does make a difference.

Sew up the opening. Ladder stitch is totally invisible on fleece – here’s a video showing how to do it.

Warren the Charity Bear - a free teddy bear pattern from Shiny Happy World

Done!

If you like this free pattern, sign up for the Shiny Happy News! Subscribers get a weekly newsletter full of sewing tips and tricks, free patterns, special discounts, and other things to make you smile. 🙂

Happy sewing!

Best,
Wendi
That's me!

Free Pattern – Easter Accessories for Toys

Easter Eggstras - Free Pattern for Easter accessories for toys from Shiny Happy World

You know what your favorite toy needs for Easter? Adjustable bunny ears and a tiny embroidered egg!

I made these to fit The Oddballs – but guess what? They fit all kinds of things!

In a completely unscientific test, my daughter and I tried them on almost all the softies in the enormous pile on her bed.

(Seriously. I don’t know how she can sleep in there!)

They fit tons of random teddy bears and softies – including her old American Girl dolls. Look at Ivy in her cute bunny ears!

Ivy (American Girl doll) wearing felt bunny ears made with a free pattern from Shiny Happy World

Ignore the red splotches on her face. Jo was obsessed with diseases for a while and stuck clay dots all over Ivy’s face to give her smallpox.

FYI – red modeling clay will stain the skin of American Girl dolls.

And here’s the egg in Ivy’s hands. It’s tiny – just 2 inches tall.

You can make bunny ears and eggs for your favorite toys. 🙂

Close up on felt bunny ears made with a free pattern from Shiny Happy World

Here’s how.

Download the template pieces here.

Make the Bunny Ears

You’ll need. . .

  • scraps of wool felt in white and pink
  • two 12 inch pipe cleaners
  • matching embroidery thread
  • freezer paper

You can find links to all my favorite tools and supplies here.

Step 1

Trace or print the ear and headband pieces onto some freezer paper. Fuse to the felt and cut out all the pieces. Cut right through the freezer paper and felt together, then peel the freezer paper away. It’s the easiest way to accurately cut small shapes like this.

Step 2

Whipstitch applique one inner ear to one larger ear piece using thread that matches the inner ear.

Whipstitch that piece to a second larger ear piece, leaving the bottom unstitched. Leave your thread tail attached.

Easter Eggstras - Free Pattern for Easter accessories for toys from Shiny Happy World

(Whipstitch is slightly different from whipstitch applique – those links go to two different tutorials.)

Cut a pipecleaner in half. Bend it into a gentle curve and fold both cut ends down about 1/2 inch -­ short enough to just fit inside the ear.

Step 3

Slide the bent pipecleaner up into the ear. Fold the bottom of the ear in half and whipstitch it closed. Don’t cut off your thread yet.

Easter Eggstras - Free Pattern for Easter accessories for toys from Shiny Happy World

Repeat Steps 2 and 3 for the second ear.

Step 3

Whipstitch the two headband pieces together, leaving the curve at one end unstitched.

Bend a pipecleaner in half. Measure it against the headband pieces and fold down the excess at the cut ends. Slide the pipecleaner into the headband and finish stitching the headband closed.

Fit the headband to whoever will be wearing it and mark where you want the ears to go.

Step 3 Whipstitch the two headband pieces together, leaving the curve at one end unstitched. Bend a pipecleaner in half. Measure it against the headband pieces and fold down the excess at the cut ends. Slide the pipecleaner into the headband and finish stitching it closed. Fit the headband to whoever will be wearing it and mark where you want the ears to go.

Step 4

Stitch one ear to the headband. I used ladder stitch but you could also use whipstitch.

Step 4 Stitch one ear to the headband. I used ladder stitch but you could also use whipstitch. I went around the base of the ear twice to make sure it was attached securely. Attach the second ear.

I went around the base of the ear twice to make sure it was attached securely.

Attach the second ear.

green felt monster (made from the Oddballs pattern) wearing bunny ears made with the free Easter Eggstras pattern from Shiny Happy World

Done!

Now it’s time to make that fancy Easter egg.

You’ll need. . .

  • scraps of wool felt
  • matching embroidery thread
  • contrasting embroidery thread
  • small bit of fiberfill stuffing
  • Sulky Sticky Fabri-solvy

I used Periwinkle felt for the egg and matching thread DMC #156 to sew the pieces together.

Step 1

Trace or print the Easter egg pattern to some Sulky Sticky Fabri-solvy and stitch. You’ll be stitching right through the stabilizer AND the felt.

These are the thread colors (two strands throughout) and stitches I used ­- you should use whatever makes YOU happy. :­-) All links go to video tutorials teaching the stitches.

Satin stitch the large circles in DMC #726.

Chain stitch all fat lines (including around circles) with DMC #722.

Use the same color to stitch the lazy daisy at one end of the egg.

Backstitch narrow lines and stitch stars with DMC #704.

French knots and running stitches between stars with DMC #3845.

Step 2

Cut around the edges of the egg pieces, soak off the Sulky Sticky Fabri-solvy in cold water. I usually drop the pieces face down in a bowl of water, let them soak for 15 minutes or so (longer is just fine – I often forget about them and fish them out hours later) and then rinse off the soggy stabilizer under cold running water. If there are any stubborn bits, a quick hit with the kitchen sprayer usually does the trick.

Easter Eggstras - Free Pattern for Easter accessories for toys from Shiny Happy World

Lay them out on a towel to dry. Don’t wring, twist, or even smoosh them. Just let them dry.

Step 3

Whipstitch all the pieces together. I like to sew two pieces together, then sew two more pieces together, then join the pairs as the final step.

Easter Eggstras - Free Pattern for Easter accessories for toys from Shiny Happy World

I made the design slightly different at the top and bottom so you could easily tell them apart. 🙂 Make sure all the single French knots are together at the bottom of the egg and the single lazy daisies are together at the top.

Easter Eggstras - Free Pattern for Easter accessories for toys from Shiny Happy World

Done!

Even if you don’t play with dolls, it would be so pretty to make up a little basket and fill it with some of these tiny stitched eggs. 🙂

Happy stitching!

Play with some felt! Try the Oddballs – a fun pattern for silly monsters.

Free Tissue Pack Cover Pattern

Monster tissue case - a free pattern from Shiny Happy World

‘Tis the season for sniffles. Which means it’s the perfect time to pull out this cute little monster tissue pack cover pattern and whip up some cute gifts! It’s super easy and the pattern is free.

Oh – and if a little case of the sniffles turns into a full-blown cold with a cough and achy chest – take a look at this post for instructions to make a Vicks Vapo-rub scented rice bag – complete with this monstrous rice bag cover to help scare away the cough.

Monster Rice Bag Cover - a free pattern from Shiny Happy World

Here’s how to make the tissue pack cover.

Throughout the pattern, the links go to online video tutorials demonstrating the techniques used.

Materials You’ll Need

  • 6″ x 7″ rectangle of fabric for the outside
  • 6″ x 7″ rectangle of fabric for the lining
  • two 6″ pieces of white rickrack
  • 1″ colored buttons
  • two 5/8″ black buttons
  • sewing machine, thread, basic sewing tools

Instructions

Step 1

Draw a line 1/8 from the short edge on the right size one of your fabric rectangles.

Watch a video here showing how to embed rickrack in a seam.

Step 2

Position one of the pieces of rickrack so that the line you drew in Step 1 is just barely showing in the valleys at the top edge of the rickrack.

Step 3

Sew the rickrack in place, right along the line you drew.

Step 4

Lay the second rectangle of fabric face down over the first, with the rickrack sandwiched between the layers. Sew them together using a 1/4″ seam allowance.

Step 5

Open the piece up and flip it right side out. Press. See how the rickrack makes nice teeth?

Fold the piece in half and mark the midpoint with a pin. Arrange the button eyes on either side of the center point. I’ve stacked black buttons on top of blue buttons ­ but you can use any combination of buttons and felt you like to get the effect you want.

Sew the buttons in place, sewing only through the top (purple) layer of fabric.

Step 6

Repeat Steps 1 – ­4 to embed rickrack in the seam at the other end of the rectangle.

The two rectangles of fabric should be right sides facing, with both short ends sewn together (with rickrack embedded in the seams) and eyes sewn to the purple layer at one end only. At this point, the long sides of the rectangles should still be unsewn.

Step 7

Sew the long side seams. Leave a couple of inches unsewn in the center of one side so you can turn it right side out.

Clip the corners up to (but not into) the stitching to eliminate extra bulk.

Step 8

Turn it right side out and use a chopstick to carefully poke out the corners so they’re flat. Press the whole thing.

Fold it in half and mark the center points on both sides with pins.

Step 9

With the eyeball (purple) side facing up, fold the toothy edges into the center.

Pin in place.

Step 10

Sew the short edges using a 1/4″ seam allowance. This will close up the turning hole and sew the sides of your pack in one move.

Repeat for the other side.

Step 11

Turn it right side out. Ta daa! A tissue pack! Monstrous on the outside, nicely finished on the inside.

Fill it with a pack of travel tissues (I like to take them out of the pack first ­- all the different brands seem to open different ways) and he’s ready to go.

Get well soon!

If you like this silly tissue pack cover pattern, sign up for the Shiny Happy News! Members get a weekly email with crafty tips and tricks, links to free patterns, special discounts, and more. 🙂

 

Zen Stitching – How to Embroider a Mandala with No Pattern

Zen Stitching - How to Embroider a Mandala with No Pattern (Shiny Happy World)

Want to learn the basics of hand embroidery with an easy online workshop – totally free?

Sign up for Embroidery 101 here. You’ll learn how to get started, the tools and supplies you’ll need, the four most basic stitches, how to transfer your pattern and how to display your work.

If you already know the basics – sign up for Embroidery 201. It’s also free! You’ll learn how to stitch on specialty fabrics like felt and stretchy T-shirts. Plus you’ll learn lots and lots and LOTS more stitches – all my favorites!

This is one of my favorite kinds of stitching.

Stitching with no pattern.

If regular embroidery is coloring in slow motion, this is doodling in slow motion.

Doodling with a needle and thread. I love it!

When you get into the right frame of mind, it’s the most wonderful, absorbing way to embroider.

Do you think something like that mandala is way too complicated to stitch without a pattern? Or that you don’t have the skills?

Think again!

It’s almost all simple straight stitches, with just a few lazy daisies and French knots thrown in for fun. And I’m going to show you right now how to build the pattern. If you can connect dots you can do this.

One warning here – this isn’t speed stitching.

It’s sloooooow stitching.

It’s enjoy-the-process stitching.

It’s savor-the-moment stitching.

Have fun with it!

Step 1 Start with some circles of felt.

Zen Stitching - How to Embroider a Mandala with No Pattern (Shiny Happy World)These are small – they’re in a 3 inch hoop. I like to work small when I do this – large can be overwhelming.

I centered them by eye. This doesn’t have to be perfect, but I was pretty careful.

Time to start stitching. The key is to start in the center and work my way out.

Zen Stitching - How to Embroider a Mandala with No Pattern (Shiny Happy World)Step 2 I started with those green spokes. Come up in the center and stitch to the north, south, east and west points. These are going to be your guides for all the rest of your stitching, so take your time and get them nice and straight. You can stitch a plus sign, right?

Step 3 I stitched in between those spokes to add northeast, southeast, southwest and northwest spokes.

Woo hoo! I have guiding marks for the rest of my stitching!

Step 4 I filled in the wedges created by those spokes. Each wedge got a French knot, a lazy daisy, and a little straight stitch – all centered between the spokes on either side.

You don’t have to do these stitches. Do whatever strikes your fancy! Just try to keep whatever you do centered in the wedge.

Then I moved out to the next ring.

Zen Stitching - How to Embroider a Mandala with No Pattern (Shiny Happy World)Step 5 I started with the pink triangles. I stitched a straight stitch from the yellow stitch at the end of each lazy daisy (A) to a point in line with the green spokes, halfway across the grey felt ring (B). If you need to see the image bigger you can click on it.

See how I used the stitches that were already there (the green spokes and the yellow dashes) as guides? That keeps everything even and lined up and helps you build a complex-looking pattern very simply.

Step 6 After I worked the pink triangles all around, I added the purple spokes that go from the yellow dash (A) to the edge of the grey ring (C).

Step 7 I liked the look of the pink zigzags, so I worked purple zigzags all the way around, stitching from the ends of those long spokes I made in Step 6 (C) to the top of each pink triangle (B).

I just keep filling in the space, working from points already created. It’s just connecting the dots and filling in the spaces created when I connect the dots. I never plan the next step until I’m ready to stitch it.

Step 8 I created those yellow spokes, stitching from the center of each pink triangle (where the yellow French knots are) to the edge of the grey ring (D).

Step 9 Everything was looking a little stick-like at that point, so I added the French knots inside each pink triangle to change up the texture a bit.

Time to move out to the last ring.

Zen Stitching - How to Embroider a Mandala with No Pattern (Shiny Happy World)This time points C and D were my main markers, because they’re the ones that go all the way to the edge of the grey ring.

Step 10 I started with the point at the tip of the purple zigzag (C) and stitched a spoke to the edge of the pink ring. I did it in two stitches because it was a wider ring – which gave me the idea to stitch a lazy daisy coming leaf coming out of each side of that spoke/stem.

Step 11 I stitched a couple more straight stitches from just past the end of each lazy daisy to a point straight out from the yellow spokes in the grey ring (E).

Step 12 I stitched the little yellow bursts from the end of each yellow spoke (D), kind of filling in the space in those green points I created in Step 11.

Step 13 I liked those yellow bursts, so I added some little yellow rays coming out of where the lazy daisy stitches joined the spoke/stems from Step 10.

Step 14 I was still liking the pop of the yellow bursts, so I added smaller bursts at the top of each green stem/spoke.

I was almost done – I just wanted to add a bit more color and more French knots to change the texture again.

Step 15 I added blue French knots at the base of the yellow bursts created in Step 12.

Step 16 I had purple felt in the center and purple stitching in the middle ring. I felt like it needed more dark purple in the last ring, so I added French knots all around the edge, one on each side of the green points.

Done! Just take it one step at a time, work your way all the way around each ring, then build up the next level. As long as you stay lined up with your original points – those green spokes in the center – everything will line up and you’ll end up with a very complex-looking pattern.

Zen Stitching - How to Embroider a Mandala with No Pattern (Shiny Happy World)

What do you think? Anyone else want to try this kind of stitching? Do you want more info or to see more sample ideas? I’d love to share!

I hope you liked this tutorial. Want more? Sign up for the Shiny Happy News! I’ll keep you up to date about all the new tutorials here and also give you early access to any sales!

Happy stitching!

Best,
Wendi
Wendi_Gratz_Shiny_Happy_World

Reusable Christmas Gift Bags

I don’t use paper gift wrap anymore. It’s expensive. It’s a pain to store. And the pile of it left after opening gifts always feels more than a little wasteful.

A couple of years ago I started making fabric bags for gifts. I love them! They’re so crazy easy to make – and they take no room at all to store when they’re not in use. Nice! Oh – and the ribbons are attached. No separate bows and no tape needed.

I make two different kinds. Ones that gather and tie at the top, like this one. . .

Reusable Fabric Gift Bags - a free tutorial from Shiny Happy WorldAnd ones that wrap around the gift and then tie, like this one. . .

Reusable Fabric Gift Bags - a free tutorial from Shiny Happy WorldWant to know how to make them? Be prepared for simplicity.

Cut two rectangles of fabric. Any size. I have a huge variety.

Sew them together around three sides (watch this video showing how to sew a straight line and turn corners if you’re a beginner). If you’re making the first kind of bag – the one that gathers and ties at the top – cut 1 yard of ribbon, fold it in half, and embed the fold in the side seam (video here), a few inches from the top of the bag. When you turn it right side out it will look like this. . .

Reusable Fabric Gift Bags - a free tutorial from Shiny Happy WorldHem the top opening. (Video here.)

If you’re making the second kind of bag, cut a ribbon 2 times the length of the bag plus an additional yard. Fold it in half and sew the fold at top of the bag in the center of one side. It should look like this. . .

Reusable Fabric Gift Bags - a free tutorial from Shiny Happy WorldDone!

Wrapping is easy. Pop in the gift. Fold the top of the bag over. Tie the ribbon. Here’s what it looks like from the back. . .

Reusable Fabric Gift Bags - a free tutorial from Shiny Happy World

And here it is from the front. . .

Reusable Fabric Gift Bags - a free tutorial from Shiny Happy WorldI don’t stick to holiday-ish fabric – we use these for birthdays and other occasions too.

Reusable Fabric Gift Bags - a free tutorial from Shiny Happy WorldA lot of mine use grosgrain ribbon because I have a lot of it on hand from some aprons I used to make and sell. But sometimes I use pretty gauzy ribbon.

Reusable Fabric Gift Bags - a free tutorial from Shiny Happy WorldAny fabric. Any ribbon. It all works well, looks pretty and folds up to store easily. Love!

Reusable Fabric Gift Bags - a free tutorial from Shiny Happy World

Update – I got a lot of questions about how we tag them. I started using easy reusable felt tags, and there’s a tutorial here showing how to make them.

Happy sewing!

Best,
Wendi
Wendi_Gratz_Shiny_Happy_World

 

My Awesomely Huge Ironing Board – An Ikea Hack How To

Awesome Extra Wide Ironing Board from Shiny Happy World

There are three things I LOVE about my awesome new ironing board.

One is obviously the fabric for the cover. This is The Land that Never Was designed by Lisa Congdon for Cloud9 Fabrics. I love the whole collection!

Two is the size. I can iron an entire piece of fabric – selvedge to selvedge – on this baby – with room to set my iron on the board too.

Awesome Extra Wide Ironing Board from Shiny Happy World

Please admire the vastness. 🙂

Three is the storage underneath.

Awesome Extra Wide Ironing Board from Shiny Happy World

I never take my ironing board down – so the easily collapsible X bottom was just a waste of space for me. This ironing board sits on some handy dandy Ikea Expedit shelving!

Here’s how I made it. . .

1. Start with your shelves. I was going to use a different piece from Ikea. When we went they had plenty in stock, but they were all on the top shelves of the storage area and they said they couldn’t get them down until after hours and we’d have to come back the next day. The Ikea is 2 1/2 hours away. Coming back the next day wasn’t an option – so we went with two of these instead, laid them on their sides and screwed them together in the back. It’s even longer than I had planned – but that’s ok with me! (Edited to add: Ikea no longer stocks the Expedit shelving. Their replacement is the Kallax, which would also be suitable for this project.)

I also added the wheels to the bottom for easy moving and vacuuming.

2. Now measure the top of your shelves. Find some small L-brackets and measure them too. You’re going to cut a piece of plywood big enough to hang over the edge of the shelf on all sides by the width of a bracket. These next pictures will make it clear.

Awesome Extra Wide Ironing Board from Shiny Happy World

Here’s a bracket (the ones I found were 1 1/2 inches) attached to the edge of the plywood. It’s attached to what will be the underside of my ironing board.

Awesome Extra Wide Ironing Board from Shiny Happy World

In this photo I’ve flipped my board over. It’s resting on the top of the shelving unit and the brackets are holding it in place so it doesn’t slide around. You could screw the brackets to the shelving unit too, but I wanted the whole top to be easily removable and I found that six brackets around the edge (two on each long side and one on each short end) held it in place nicely.

I wrapped the lower (not screwed in) part of the brackets with a layer of masking tape so they wouldn’t scratch the surface of the shelving unit. You never know – I might take this whole thing apart at some time in the future and use the shelves in another way.

Awesome Extra Wide Ironing Board from Shiny Happy World

Here’s the wooden top seen from above, before adding padding and the cover. Yes – that’s a seam down the middle. No – I don’t recommend doing the top in two pieces. I had a bunch of kids with me in the car the day I bought the wood and I couldn’t put the back seat down to accommodate a larger piece of plywood. I should have waited.

Awesome Extra Wide Ironing Board from Shiny Happy World

I rounded the corners of the wood just a tiny bit. I set a can of spray paint on the corner and traced that curved edge to use as a guide. This isn’t necessary – but I’m going to use a drawstring cover and it will wrap more neatly around a curve.

Now I’m ready to add some padding and the cover.

Awesome Extra Wide Ironing Board from Shiny Happy World

I covered the top with six layers of white cotton terry cloth. I usually use cotton batting, but I think this terry cloth might hold up better (compress less) over time. Cut the terrycloth so it hangs over the edge of the tabletop by 1-2 inches. Smooth out any folds or wrinkles.

Awesome Extra Wide Ironing Board from Shiny Happy World

Round the corners of the terrycloth too.

Awesome Extra Wide Ironing Board from Shiny Happy World

Now it’s time to add the pretty! A good selvedge on fabric makes me happy in the same way that good endpapers in a book make me happy.

From here on out it’s just like covering any ironing board. I’ve got a video here showing how.

Cut the fabric to cover the top plus 1-2 inches all around the edge – just like the terry cloth. Round the corners of the top fabric, too.

Sew bias tape all around the edge of the new cover. Use that bias tape as a tube and thread it with a long piece of cord. I like using a smooth nylon cord – it draws up easily.

Center your cover over your ironing board. Draw up the drawstring and use a toggle to hold it in place.

Awesome Extra Wide Ironing Board from Shiny Happy World

Ta daaaa! I love my new ironing board!

Here are handy links to all the posts about quilting tools and supplies.

Sewing Machine

Iron

Rotary Cutting Tools

Scissors

Other General Sewing Room Supplies

One More Hugely Popular Post that Seems to Fit Here Better than Anywhere Else

Return to the Let’s Make a Quilt main Table of Contents.

Move on to the posts about choosing your quilt pattern.

Happy sewing!

Free Hot Stuff Apron Pattern

Hot Stuff - Free Apron Pattern from Shiny Happy WorldHere’s a little gift from me.

A free pattern for an apron you can make entirely from scraps!

That’s right – a stash-busting project that comes together really easily and makes a great hostess or holiday gift. If you can sew a straight line, you can make this apron. The pattern has links to videos teaching all the skills you’ll need – including how to sew a straight line. 🙂

The pattern includes sizes for kids and grown-ups – so it’s totally versatile. Make a mother-daughter set! Package it up with some gardening tools and seeds, or some cooking utensils and a couple of your favorite recipes for a nice, personal gift. Have fun with it!

Materials

  • scraps of fabric for apron and tie
  • rectangle of fabric for the lining ­- amount depends on measurements
  • sewing machine
  • thread
  • basic sewing tools

Step 1

Calculate the dimensions of your apron.

Measure all the way around the waist, and measure from the waist down to the desired length (usually anywhere from mid-­thigh to the knee, depending on the look you prefer).

Length ____________ Waist _____________

You’re going to piece your apron front from 3 inch strips of fabric, so divide the total width of your apron (the waist measurement) by 2 1/2. That will tell you how many strips wide your apron top will be. If you don’t get an even number (and you probably won’t) round up.

Number of strips____________

From your scrap fabric, start cutting 3 inch wide strips. They can be any length you like ­ I usually just go with the length of my scraps. Try to have a variety of long and short strips. Rotary cutting tools are ideal for this ­- learn how to use them here.

Start joining the strips together into longer strips. I usually join a few together until I have a strip longer than the length of my apron. Then I trim it to the desired length and start attaching more strips to what I cut off. Keep joining strips and cutting to the desired length until you have the desired number of strips. For my 8 year old daughter that was 8 strips, each 15 inches long.

Step 2

Now play with the layout of your strips. For this one I made sure to spread out the larger solid bits so they’re not touching each other. You may have a greater range of lights and darks that you’re trying to keep balanced -­ it will depend on your fabric selection. Just keep rearranging the strips until it feels balanced and happy.

This is the fun part ­ so take your time and play a while. When you’re satisfied, sew the strips together using 1/4 inch seam allowance. Press everything nice and flat.

Step 3

You’ll want to cover up all those seam allowances. Basically, we’re going to make a quilt without the batting. Lay the backing fabric face down. Lay the patchwork rectangle face up over the backing fabric. Smooth it all out.

Trim the backing fabric to size -­ making sure it’s slightly bigger than the patchwork fabric all the way around.

Pin the two layers together.

Step 4

Stitch the two layers together by stitching as exactly as possible over your seam lines. This is called “stitching in the ditch.”

Also stitch the layers together 1/4 inch from the edge along both sides and the bottom. This will help you with a cheater­ pants hemming technique. No measuring!

Step 5

Now trim the backing so it’s even with the patchwork top all the way around.

Step 6

Hem each side of the main apron piece. Turn the edge under 1/4 inch. Press.

These hemming photos show the apron with the back side facing up.

See how I folded it right on the stitching line? That makes it soooooo easy to hem without measuring!

Step 7

Turn under another quarter inch. Press.

Stitch down very close to the folded edge of the fabric.

Repeat with the second side.

If you need a refresher on how to hem, watch this video.

Step 8

Now repeat with the bottom hem. Turn the bottom edge up 1/4 inch. Press.

The corners can get a little bulky here -­ so trim away an itty bit off the corner, from stitching line to stitching line.

Step 9

Turn the bottom edge under a second 1/4 inch. Press.

Stitch it down very close to the folded edge of the fabric.

The hems will give the back of your apron a nice frame around the bottom and sides.

Step 10

Time to make your apron tie. On a scrappy apron like this I especially like to make my tie out of scraps of fabric too. Cut enough 3 inch strips so that when joined together they are the desired length.

For a girl’s apron that ties in the back, you’ll need a total length of 58 inches. To double­-wrap and tie in the front you’ll need 84 inches.

For a woman’s apron that ties in the back you’ll need 72 inches. To tie it in the front you’ll need 96 inches.

Join your strips together on the diagonal so you don’t get thick, bumpy bits in your tie. You can see how in this video.

Step 11

That video also shows how to fold the strip into double-fold tape. In a nutshell. . .

  • Fold it in half the long way.
  • Press.
  • Fold each long edge into the center.
  • Press.
  • Refold the center.
  • Press.
  • Open up the center fold and turn the short end under 1/4 inch.
  • Refold and press. Now you’ll have a neat end to your tie.

Yes – the fabric in the photos is changing here. 🙂 These instructions are exactly the same as for finishing the Easy Apron pattern. There’s a free tutorial for that here.

Step 12

Gather up the top edge of the apron until it’s the desired width, usually a little more than half of the total waist measurement.

Easy Apron - a free pattern from Shiny Happy World

This isn’t rocket science, so don’t tear out your hair (or your stitches) if you end up a little longer or shorter than you wanted. A little bit of variation won’t look bad. 🙂

There’s a video here showing two methods for gathering fabric.

Step 13

Fold your double-­fold tape over the raw, gathered edge of the top of your apron. If you pin the center of your tie to the center of your apron piece and work your way out from that center point, it’s very easy to get everything even with no measuring.

Easy Apron - a free pattern from Shiny Happy World

Pin the double-­fold tape in place.

Step 14

Stitch the folded edges together, the whole length of the waistband/tie.

Easy Apron - a free pattern from Shiny Happy World

Start at one end. Stitch the short end together. Turn the corner and stitch all the way down the length of the tie, enclosing the gathered edge of the apron top in the fold. Sew slowly, making sure that you are catching the back fold of the tape in your stitching. Turn the corner and stitch the other short edge.

Finished!

 

You’re done! Step back and admire your awesome thriftiness. I bet you have more scraps hidden away somewhere. You should make aprons for everyone you know!

Happy sewing!

Best,
Wendi
Wendi_Gratz_Shiny_Happy_World

Crochet Mike the Monster from Monsters University!

 

I love monsters. And I love crocheting monsters. So, when I found out that Disney was looking for bloggers to write tutorials for crafts based on Monsters University, I nearly fell out of my chair.

Monsters-University banner

My love for monsters must have poured through the computer screen… because here I am, sharing my super-awesome crochet tutorial with you!

This tutorial is celebrating the release of Monsters University (in a Blu-ray combo pack) tomorrow! Hooray!

How do you pick just one monster?

I’ll confess. It was really hard to pick a monster from Monsters University to turn into crochet-form. The movie is just so darn chock-full of adorable and creative monsters!

Characters from Monsters University

I was tempted by Squishy (the multi-eyed cutie with a knit sweater!) and Terry & Terry (the double-headed duo)… what great shapes!

But in the end… I had to go with familiar and loveable Mike.

movies-monsters-university-character-art-4

You can crochet your own Mike!

 

To crochet Mike, you’ll need:

  • 2 colors of worsted weight yarn: green (250 yards) and white (15 yards)
  • Size H (5.0mm) crochet hook
  • Tapestry Needle
  • Polyester stuffing
  • Small amounts of felt: black, white, grey and blue
  • Craft glue (one that works for fabrics)

Once you have your supplies gathered, download now.

The pattern download will take you step-by-step through the stitches you’ll need to bring Mike to life… too many for just one blog post!

Crocheted fingers

One of the things I love about Monsters University is how lifelike the animation is… and I didn’t want to lose any of that detail in the crochet version. That’s why I made sure to give Mike separate fingers and toes!

It’s a little extra crocheting… but I hope you love the results!

Add the details…

Once you’ve finished crocheting the pieces, you’ll need to decide which expression you’re going to give to Mike… during the course of the movie, you’ll notice that he sports quite a few!

mike-and-sulley-monster-university-wallpaper-wide

I decided to give Mike the wide grin (with retainer!) that’s featured on the cover of the DVD:

felt mouth

To make Mike’s mouth, use your pieces of felt and cut out the shapes you’ll need. First, cut a smile (or frown) from the black felt. Next, cut bumps (for teeth) from the white.

Here’s a trick: you don’t need to cut the teeth to fit the mouth perfectly. Just cut the top ridges for the teeth, then glue in place on the black mouth. Notice how, in my photo below, the white is hanging off the side of the black:

shaping a felt mouth

Once the glue dries, trim the excess white, and you’ll have a perfect mouth! A simple line of grey makes the retainer.

Since you’ve used yarn to make Mike, a craft glue will hold the smile in place:

mike1

Isn’t he so cute?

More accessory ideas

I’m a real sucker for the University-wear sported in the movie!

mike-wazowski-monsters-university-18119-1920x1080

How cute would your crocheted Mike look with a knitted blue and white scarf? Or an MU pennant made from felt? Use your imagination!

You can also get super-creative and make multiple expressions… and attach them to Mike with use hook and loop tape! He’ll be a toy with many emotions!

Are you going to get crocheting?

I had so much fun watching Monsters University and crocheting a Mike… I see more monsters in my future.

I hope you absolutely love this free pattern download as much as I do!

Helpful Links

Be sure to share the cutie monster you crochet!

Disclosure: This is a compensated post from Disney and Blueprint Social. I received a copy of Monsters University. All opinions are my own. I received permission to create a pattern using the likeness of Mike.

Happy stitching!

Best,
Stacey

Free Pattern! A Simple Skirt for The Dress Up Bunch

Free Simple Skirt Pattern for The Dress Up Bunch

The Dress Up Bunch dolls now have a quick and easy skirt pattern you can make.

And it’s FREE!

Psst! I designed the skirt especially to fit all the dolls in The Dress Up Bunch collection – but it’ll also fit a ton of other dolls. It fits the American Girl dolls really well, and I guarantee it’ll also fit a bunch of random teddy bears and softies piled on any kid’s bed.

It pairs really well with the shirt from the free Play Clothes pattern.

So. The skirt. IT’S SO EASY!

Bean in free skirt pattern
No trim – just fabulous fabric.

You can make it super basic – with no trim. That’s what Bean is wearing here on the right. Just choose a fabulous fabric and you’re done.

Poppy’s skirt – the one you see on the cover – is made from mid-weight cotton twill and has a band of trim added above the hem. That’s a great way to add flat trims, like lace or rickrack or pretty ribbon. The pattern includes instructions for adding these. Of course.

The pattern also includes instructions for adding trim to the hem at the bottom of the skirt. That’s where you’d add any dangly trims, like fringe, tassels, pompoms, or these pretty beads.

pretty beaded fringe on the free Simple Skirt Pattern for the Dress Up Bunch
Ohh! Pretty beaded fringe!

I love the shiny blue beads with these tiny flamingos. Very beachy and fun.

Of course, like all my doll clothing patterns, there are instructions for leaving a tail opening for the critters in the collection. They like to have their waggin’ room!

Ready to make a fun skirt? They’re so easy – I bet you can’t make just one! 🙂

Materials

  • less than 1/4 yard fabric
  • 12 inches 3/8″ elastic
  • 24 inches fancy trim (optional)

Step 1

Cut a rectangle 7 inches tall x 24 inches wide.

Step 2

Prep the top and bottom edges for hemming.

Turn the top edge down 1/2″ and press. Turn it down another 1/2″ and press. Turn the bottom edge up 1/4″ and press. Turn it up another 1/4″ and press.

Don’t stitch the hems down yet ­- it’s just easiest to do all the pressing while it’s one flat piece.

Step 3

If you want to add trim to the middle of the skirt (like Poppy’s on the cover) now is the time to add it.

Sew it in place all along the 24 inches of the skirt. For wider trim like this, stitch it down at the top and the bottom. For something like rickrack I might use a zigzag stitch down the middle. It depends on the trim and the size. Use your best judgment.

Step 4

Unfold the creases you made in Step 2.

Sew up the center back seam of the skirt using 1/4″ seam allowance.

If you’re not leaving an opening for a tail, just sew the whole edge.

If you’re leaving a tail opening for critters, sew as shown in the photo.

Make sure to backstitch at the top and bottom of the tail opening so it’s nice and strong and holds up to lots of dressing and undressing. :­-)

Step 5

Press the center back seam open.

If you are leaving a tail opening, stitch a box around the opening to stabilize it.

Here’s that boxed­-in tail opening from the outside.

You’ll probably use a matching thread color ­ I just wanted to make sure you could see the stitching. 🙂

Step 6

Refold the creases.

Stitch the hem down all the way around the skirt. If you’re adding trim to the bottom of the skirt, now is the time to add it.

I sewed this beaded fringe in place as I stitched down the hem. The beads are attached to a ribbon. I just laid the ribbon down over the folded hem and stitched through all the layers at once.

Here it is from the inside.

I stitched along the top and the bottom of the ribbon. I needed to use a zipper foot to stitch along the bottom of the ribbon, so I could get that close to the beads.

I could have sewed it so the ribbon was on the outside of the skirt. Use your best judgment based on the trim you’re using.

Step 7

Sew the casing at the top of the skirt.

Leave a couple of inches open at the top ­- at the back seam -­ so you can put in the elastic.

Step 8

Cut a 12″ piece of 3/8″ elastic and thread it through the casing. (A bodkin is SO MUCH EASIER than the safety-pin method I used to use!)

Overlap the ends of the elastic 1 inch and sew them together. Slip the stitched elastic up into the casing and finish sewing the casing closed.

Watch this video for more info on using elastic in a waistband.

Done! Press everything neatly, turn the skirt right side out and try it on.

With trim or without, these skirts are so quick and easy to make!

Need that shirt pattern? There’s a free pattern for the shirt (and a pair of shorts) here.

Have fun! And happy stitching!