Farewell Ami Club

After three years (that’s 36 patterns!) Ami Club is now closed.

I hope you all have had as much fun as Stacey and I have!

Pippa Puppy is the final pattern in the club. If you’re a club member, you’ll be able to download the pattern here until your membership runs out. Everyone’s membership and download access will run out on different days, depending on the date they signed up.

If you have any trouble accessing the final pattern (or didn’t see this notice of the closing until after your membership expired) please contact me at smile@shinyhappyworld.com and I’ll get your pattern to you.

You can find all the crochet patterns (including previous Ami Club patterns) here.

The end of the club doesn’t mean we won’t be designing more crochet patterns – just not one every month. 🙂 Instead, we’ll be designing some patterns that take a little longer. We’ve had requests for Mystery Crochet-Alongs and more Mix & Match patterns – so look for those (and maybe some crocheted puppets and baby toys) in 2020. You can sign up for the mailing list here.

It’s been a wonderful run! Happy stitching!

Best,
Wendi

Christmas Pickle – a free crochet pattern

Stacey loves eating pickles, and is a Christmas Pickle Collector – so it’s no surprise that she designed a pattern for a crocheted Christmas Pickle! We’ve updated it here with some new tutorial links.

The skills you’ll need for just about any amigurumi are. . .

This project uses a couple of extra skills, but don’t worry. They’re easy, and we have video tutorials showing how!

You can go through all those posts now, or just hop to them as you get to those points in the pattern – whatever works best for you!

Yarn

This pattern can be used with any weight yarn. If you use worsted weight yarn, your pickle will be about 5 1/2 inches long.

Materials

Gauge Notes

This pattern doesn’t specify a gauge. It’s a stuffed pickle, and you don’t need to be too picky about exact sizing. The most important thing is that you use a hook size that creates a nice looking fabric for your yarn. If you use the recommended hook size, and your fabric looks very loose (so that stuffing would show through), then you will want to use a smaller hook. Other than that, no measuring required!

Stitch into the Back

All stitches in this pattern (that are worked in the round) are worked through the back loop only, unless otherwise directed. Look at this picture.

Stitching in the Back Loop

See how one loop is highlighted in black? This is the back loop, and it’s what you’ll stitch into. Stitching into the back loop creates ridges on the right side of the piece.

Want to see crocheting through the back loop in action? Check out this blog post. It talks all about why Stacey crochets through the back loop and even has a handy dandy video showing how to find that loop. 

Abbreviations

  • ch: chain
  • sc: single crochet
  • hdc: half double crochet
  • bbl: bobble stitch
  • sc2tog: single crochet 2 stitches together
  • st(s): stitch(es)

Ready? Let’s jump in!

Ch 2 (I like to start with a sloppy slip knot. This video shows how. And this video shows how to chain.)

Round 1 sc 6 in 2nd ch from hook (6) This post will help you find that second chain from the hook.

Round 2 sc twice in next st (12) This video will help you if you find it tricky to start the second round.

Round 3 [sc twice in next st, sc in next st.] 6 times (18)

Round 4 sc in each st. (18)

Round 5 [bbl in next st, sc in next 5 sts.] 2 times (18)

Round 6 sc in each st. (18)

Round 7 [sc in next 4 sts, bbl in next st, sc in next st] 2 times (18)

Rounds 8-11 Repeat rounds 4-7.

Round 12 sl st in next 6 sts, sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next 6 sts, sc in next 3 sts. (18)

This video shows how to slip stitch – it’s what gives your pickle that classic bend in the middle. And this video shows how to half double crochet. These slightly taller stitches are what give your pickle room on the back to make that bend.

Round 13 sl st in next 6 sts, [bbl in next st, sc in next 5 sts] 2 times (18)

This video shows how to bobble stitch.

Round 14 sl st in next 6 sts, sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next 6 sts, sc in next 3 sts. (18)

Round 15 sl st in next 6 sts, [sc in next 4 sts, bbl in next st] 2 times (18)

Rounds 16-23 Repeat rounds 4-7, twice.

Lightly stuff your pickle.

Round 24 [sc2tog, sc in next st.] 6 times (12)

Round 25 [sc2tog] 6 times (6)

Add a bit more stuffing if needed and close up the top using your favorite method. I like the drawstring method – there’s a video here showing how. And here’s a video showing how to fasten off.

Bury the tail. Tie a ribbon to the top for hanging.

Congratulations! You have an adorable Christmas Pickle ornament!

Happy stitching!

Best,
Wendi

Jack the Tiny Pumpkin – free crochet pattern

Make an adorable tiny pumpkin to celebrate Halloween or Thanksgiving!

It would also be adorable stitched up in red to be a cherry. 🙂

Here’s how to make it!

The skills you’ll need for just about any amigurumi are. . .

You can go through all those posts now, or just hop to them as you get to those points in the pattern – whatever works best for you!

Yarn

This pattern can be used with any weight yarn. The sample is crocheted with worsted weight yarn to make a 3-inch tall pumpkin with a 10-inch vine. You can use thicker yarn/a bigger hook to make a bigger pumpkin, and thinner yarn/a smaller hook to make a smaller pumpkin.

Materials

  • Size H crochet hook (or size needed to get a tight fabric)
  • two 12mm black animal eyes
  • tapestry needle
  • 1/2 cup plastic poly pellets
  • nylon knee high
  • yarn

Stitch into the Back

All stitches in this pattern (that are worked in the round) are worked through the back loop only, unless otherwise directed. Look at this picture.

See how one loop is highlighted in black? This is the back loop, and it’s what you’ll stitch into. Stitching into the back loop creates ridges on the right side of the piece.

Want to see crocheting through the back loop in action? Check out this blog post. It talks all about why Stacey crochets through the back loop and even has a handy dandy video showing how to find that loop. 

Abbreviations

  • ch: chain
  • sc: single crochet
  • sc2tog: single crochet 2 stitches together
  • st(s): stitch(es)

Ready? Let’s jump in!

We’ll start with those googly eyes in white yarn.

Ch 2 (I like to start with a sloppy slip knot. This video shows how. And this video shows how to chain.)

Round 1 sc 6 in 2nd ch from hook (6) This post will help you find that second chain from the hook.

Round 2 sc twice in next st (12) This video will help you if you find it tricky to start the second round.

Round 3 [sc twice in next st, sc in next st.] 6 times (18)

Round 4 sc in each st. (24)

Fasten off with a long tail. Insert a 12 mm eye into the center of the bowl shape. Repeat to make a second eye.

Now for the body. Use orange yarn for the pumpkin. Ch 2.

Round 1 sc 6 in 2nd ch from hook (6)

Round 2 sc twice in next st (12)

Round 3 [sc twice in next st, sc in next st.] 6 times (18)

Round 4 [sc twice in next st, sc in next 2 sts.] 6 times (24)

Round 5 [sc twice in next st, sc in next 3 sts.] 6 times (30)

Round 6 [sc twice in next st, sc in next 4 sts.] 6 times (36)

Round 6 [sc twice in next st, sc in next 5 sts.] 6 times (42)

Round 8-13 sc in each st. (42, 6 rounds)

Round 14 [sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts.] 6 times (36)

Round 15 [sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts.] 6 times (30)

Round 16 [sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts.] 6 times (24)

Round 17 Change to green yarn for the pumpkin top and vine. This post shows you how to get a clean color change. [Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts.] 6 times (18)

Remove hook, but do not fasten off. Stuff the eyes and attach them to the body, as pictured.

Stuff the body and continue crocheting.

Round 18 [sc2tog, sc in next st.] 6 times (12)

Round 19-54 (or until vine is about 10 inches long) Sc in each st. (12, 36 rounds)

Round 55 [sc2tog] 6 times (24)

Close up the tip of the vine using the drawstring method (there’s a video here) and bury the tail.

Tie the vine in a loose knot.

Done!

Make some more – enough to fill a whole pumpkin patch! They’re so much fun to make!

Happy stitching!

Best,
Wendi

How to Close Up Your Stuffing Opening with the Drawstring Method

Recently I’ve been looking for a different way to close my amigurumi. Slipstitching across the opening works just fine, but sometimes it leaves a pointier top than I would like. I wanted something that was more consistently smooth.

After a bunch of experimentation, I decided on a new method where I close up the top like a drawstring bag. It works really well – and it’s super easy!

Here’s how to do it.

See how easy that is?

Here are handy links to all the posts about closing up the stuffing opening and fastening off in amigurumi. . .

Return to the main table of contents for Let’s Learn to Crochet Amigurumi.

Move on to the lessons for attaching parts.

Happy stitching!

How to Crochet a Pocket Mouth – video tutorial

Have you seen Merrick Monster yet?

He has a cute pocket mouth (just like Munch) – and is where I’m currently storing my favorite crochet hooks. 🙂

That pocket mouth is really easy to do – and it would be an easy mod to add to just about any other pattern!

Here’s how to do it.

Have fun with it!

Here are handy links to all the posts about crocheting more advanced shapes. . .

Return to the main table of contents for Let’s Learn to Crochet Amigurumi.

Move on to the posts about troubleshooting common problems.

Happy stitching!

How to crochet Picot Bumps – video tutorial

The newest crochet amigurumi pattern is Merrick Monster.

I wanted him to have spiky little bumps all over his back and head so I used a modification of a picot stitch to crochet picot bumps. Picot stitch is usually used as an edge treatment, but in this video I show how you can use it within the body of an amigurumi. It’s an easy and fun way to add texture!

See how easy that is? You can use this technique to add a spiky, bumpy texture to any amigurumi.

Have fun with it!

Here are handy links to all the posts teaching more fancy crochet stitches. . .

Return to the main table of contents for Let’s Learn to Crochet Amigurumi.

Move on to the posts about working with crochet patterns.

Happy stitching!

How to Crochet Scallops – video tutorial

crocheted fairy doll with crochet scallops on her hair and wings

Want to lean how to crochet scallops? It’s super easy and gives you a nice swoopy edge.

The new Flit the Fairy pattern uses scallops in two ways!

Scallops give her hair that cute, curly edge, and when she turns around you can see that the edges of her wings also have scallops.

crocheted fairy doll shown from back so you can see her scalloped wings

So fancy! And not at all tricky.

In fact, it’s surprisingly easy!

Do you know how to double crochet? Then you can crochet scallops.

And if you don’t know how to double crochet yet – no worries! I’ve got a video here showing how to double crochet, and I also show how right here in the How to Crochet Scallops video. Handy!

Here it is. . .

In the video I mentioned that you can use the same method to crochet scallops onto things that aren’t crocheted – like the hem of a skirt, or the edge of a pillowcase. You just need to make some stitches around the edge to anchor your crochet. There’s a video showing how to do that here.

Here you can see I’ve added some pretty scallops to the bottom edge of a skirt made from an old T-shirt.

How to Add a Crochet Edge to Anything - a video tutorial from Shiny Happy World

You can get the Flit the Fairy pattern here.

Here are handy links to all the posts about crocheting more advanced shapes. . .

Return to the main table of contents for Let’s Learn to Crochet Amigurumi.

Move on to the posts about troubleshooting common problems.

Happy stitching!

How to Crochet an Underbite

Crochet underbites are one of my favorite things.

Actually – not just crocheted. An underbite instantly makes all critters cuter! I’ve got a tutorial here showing how to add an underbite when you’re doing applique.

But back to crochet.

Luckily – an underbite is especially easy to do in crochet. Here’s a video showing how, using Maxwell Monster as an example.

Have fun with this technique!

Here are handy links to all the posts about crocheting more advanced shapes. . .

Return to the main table of contents for Let’s Learn to Crochet Amigurumi.

Move on to the posts about troubleshooting common problems.

Happy stitching!

How to Crochet Four Legs Together – video tutorial

Image showing a cute crocheted giraffe with the text How to Crochet Four Legs Together

I was a little stiumped when I started to design this giraffe. How to crochet four legs together?

I really love making amigurumi that stand on two legs. Some of my favorite patterns use this basic shape and it’s really easy to do. Byron Bear here is a good example.

Byron Bear - a crocheted bear wearing a purple turtleneck sweater, made with a pattern from Shiny Happy World

There’s a video here showing how to crochet two standing legs.

But when I designed this giraffe I wanted him to stand on four legs.

I did some digging online and I found that there are a lot of very different methods out there to do this, but all of them felt a little trickier than I wanted for beginners, so I came up with my own method based on how I like to crochet two legs together. The process is really the same – just with more parts!

Here’s a video showing how. . .

It works really well – and it’s pretty easy! If you can crochet two legs together (as I do in so many of my patterns) you can definitely crochet four legs together for this guy.

Want to give it a try? Get the Jacob the Giraffe crochet pattern here.

Now that I’ve got this new tool in my toolbox, I’ve got all kinds of ideas for standing four-legged cuties. 🙂

Here are all the handy links to posts about crocheting standing legs. . .

Return to the main table of contents for Let’s Learn to Crochet Amigurumi.

Move on to the lessons showing how to change colors.

Happy stitching!

How to Measure Gauge for Amigurumi

First of all – gauge isn’t that important for amigurumi.

You could make hundreds of amigurumi and never once measure the gauge.

When do you need to worry about it?

One – if you want your finished project to turn out the size the pattern says it will be.

Two – if you have exactly the amount of yarn specified in the instructions and you don’t want to risk running out.

So how do you measure it?

Well, because you’re stitching in the round it’s a little different than other gauge instructions.

Crochet up a swatch of five rounds. Make sure you’re stitching through the back loop if that’s what the pattern says to do. (All FreshStitches and Shiny Happy World patterns are stitched through the back loop.)

Ch 2 (I like to start with a sloppy slip knot.)

Round 1 sc 6 in 2nd ch from hook (6)

Round 2 sc twice in next st (12)

Round 3 [sc twice in next st, sc in next st.] 6 times (18)

Round 4 [sc twice in next st, sc in next 2 sts.] 6 times (24)

Round 5 [sc twice in next st, sc in next 3 sts.] 6 times (30)

Now – measure across the diameter of your swatch.

Mine measures 2 1/2 inches.

If yours is 2 1/2 inches – good! Unravel your swatch (so you can reuse the yarn) and start stitching.

If yours is a little small, try using a larger hook size. If yours is a little big, try going down a hook size. You can also try switching between different hook materials – a bamboo hook “grabs” the yarn a little more than a metal hook, for example, which can change your swatch size.

Don’t try stitching just a little tighter or a little looser. As you work you’ll tend to revert back to your natural tension, so that’s not a good way to get gauge.

Keep experimenting until your swatch matches the one in the pattern – then stitch away!

Here are handy links to all the crochet troubleshooting posts. . .

Return to the main table of contents for Let’s Learn to Crochet Amigurumi.

Happy stitching!